Tenacity In a New Puppy

That pup has a lovely willingness to mouth, pick up, and carry items…

A puppy that gives up easily struggles to learn the complicated and behavior chains that service dogs are so remarkable for. Tencacity is part of a work drive, the will to accomplish for a person they love, and for themselves. Yes, I believe dogs can feel pride in accomplishments.

But learning tasks is not always an easy endeavor. An attentive puppy that wants to do things with you will need some encouragement to keep trying on occasion, to keep putting the smaller steps together that make a task like finding, bringing, and spreading a blanket over you.

Clicker training is a wonderful method of training because it encourages a puppy for every little thing they do right. Take for example what I call the “sit n spin”: it is a technique for an adult Dane to turn around with me in a tight space. Since they are so tall, I don’t lose the harness handle when they sit, and their long bodies don’t bump into things getting turned.

They have to sit, then move their front feet until they are facing the opposite direction. This is hard for a pupy to learn. But a clicker trainer will reward one foot moving without the rump breaking the sit. One step at a time a puppy can learn to keep at it because each movement in the right direction is recognized and promptly rewarded.

Never underestimate the power of positive encouragement!

A good side effect of clicker training the more complicated tasks is that the trainer doesn’t get discouraged either! You (I) develop an eye for seeing the things a puppy does right, and the positive encouragement given to the puppy is also positive encouragement for you and me.

With that in mind, how do I build on a new puppy’s natural inclination to keep trying? Often I use self rewarding toys, like the ones you can stuff treats in that come out as they play with it, or puzzle toys that drop out treats when they get it right. I also like clicker games that encourage a puppy to say, flip over a box for a treat.

Then I make the treat harder to get to, by putting it in a small pocket inside the box with the treat end just barely out of the pocket. Then maybe they have to move a bigger box or open a cabinet to get to the smaller box with the treat pocket. Letting them build on their past success limits frustration, which can make a pup give up like it does us.

Making what they want gradually harder to get to, requiring more problem solving on their part will build a keep at it attitude. At the same time I’m increasing their frustration tolerance, I’m building their curiosity, intelligence, and willingness to manipulate items in their environment.

Encouraging New Puppy Curiosity

A curious puppy is primed to build a huge skill set as a service dog.

This little girl here will not have much trouble learning to pull the dishwasher rack out for her disabled partner.

She might even be able to learn how to load and unload the diswasher.

All because she’s naturally curious enough to stick her nose in there! Curiosity is in my mind second only to attentiveness in importance for choosing and training a service dog.

The next 3-4 posts will stay pretty much with a brand new puppy; that first week or so in your home before you start taking them out and about much. That’s a crucial time for building a deep bond with a puppy, a relationship that will last a lifetime.

Puppies are naturally curious, the lovely little troublemakers! But an SD needs to be willing to notice and mess with anything. I break the curiosity category into 2; curious about objects (becomes retrieving), and curious about sounds (hearing alerts).

objects  

Everything is a toy to a new puppy, because everything is new to them. They don’t know what a dishtowel is for, right? So play with more than just doggie toys. Roll a can of mushrooms around on the floor, and reward them for chasing it, pawing it, and hey if they pick it up let ‘em play keep away with it!

Let an SD candidate pup get into your purse, or crawl into the closet and come out with a shoe. Make a game out of picking up anything outside of steak knives! If they turn up with one of your socks, give some happy love and show them how to put it in the hamper in exchange for a bully stick.

“Hide” their favorite toys in a drawer or kitchen cabinet while they watch and show them if they tug the strap, they can open the drawer and get their ducky baby. Reward them for following along (attentiveness) while you drag the laundry to the washer, and get them to play with or move the clothes around–later on they can learn to help you sort the piles.

The more stuff they get into, the better, which is kinda the opposite of how I’ve always raised my companion Danes.

Whatever object they show interest in, tell them the name so they can learn what it is, and show them what to do with it.

What trainers call ‘labeling’, is essentially nothing more than knowing the plastic tube that smells like vanilla is my Secret Deoderant.

A lot of “experts” say dogs can’t label very well if at all, but I know bettter. All of my Danes associated words with objects well enough to ID them, and go to them. A few would pick them up.

I don’t know why some folks don’t think dogs can label more than a few things like doors or their toys. I had a PET dane (Shabah) with a vocabulary of nearly 200 words. Another reason I love Great Danes! They have way more intelligence than “experts” credit them with.

So when a new pup shows interest in something, let him feel the texture, recognize it visually, learn the smell, accept the taste of unnatural things like metal, the sounds it makes when it moves. Use all their senses. The more senses they use to identify something, the more likely they are to remember the word (and action) that goes with it.

sounds

One thing I’ve noticed, about all of my Danes, anyway, is a noise sensitivity. I need to go heavy on getting them used to sounds, and helping them associate what that sound belongs to. 8 wks is about when a development peroid called “fear imprinting” sets in. So a bit of fright at this age can stick in their heads a long time.

Clanging dishes will be in their working life anytime I go to a restaurant. So I’ll be making lots of clanging noises, and if they notice it, I’ll tell them what it is. Clanging, banging, radios, beepings, delivery trucks, you name it they gotta be introduced and acclimate to work in public without being too distracted to focus.

A more passive way to help them accept and eventually ignore “scary” sounds like big trucks or air brakes is background music. Recordings of skateboards, city sounds, construction noise and the like can be played at home while they’re playing or resting or doing things with you.

Played low enough, they learn to ignore the background sounds readily as they concentrate on something else (play!!), and when I turn it up and they aren’t bothered by it, they get big rewards. This will help them keep their calm and their focus on their tasks later in public.

Some sounds I want them to not ignore: tea kettles, pots boiling over, a doorbell etc. When I want them to notice and alert me, I have to make a point of it. “OH do you hear (__)?” click, treat. That’s where it begins.

Teaching them to touch me when they hear it is as simple as luring their little nose with a marvelous treat from where it is to where it touches me. Combining the sound and the touch may take practice as seperate actions, but if you can get them to do it together right away, your hearing alerts will be learned fast!

Some also have had a body sensitivity: they didn’t like things on their bodies. So to prevent that, considering the weight and constriction of a mobility harness in their future, I start the tiny tots right away wearing something like a small tracking harness.

I will want them to pull in harness at times (up stairs, inclines etc), so I use the collar and leash to walk without pulling. This first week with a baby, I just want them used to having something on their bodies. Coats for cold weather, too, help them adjust to the sensation.

Most of all, have fun! They take lots of energy, and encouraging the traits they need for working life later is in addition to housebreaking, and socializing, and everything else a puppy needs.

But putting the time in now will make for less time formally “training” later.

Essential Attentiveness The First Week

To state the obvious, the pup can’t do what you ask if they aren’t paying attention to you.

That’s why you want to have picked a puppy that shows more interest in you than toys, boys, or noise!

There’s a window of heavy, fast development before 16 wks old. So laying a solid foundation of attentiveness can be nearly set in stone during that time.

But there is a window within that window: the first few days after a puppy has come to live with you.

As you allow them a few days to “settle in”, they are missing their littermates, their dams, and their former home. They are looking for some comfort in addition to exploring the new diggs.

That’s the time to really take advantage of their desire to be with you and interact. They don’t even need to have learned their new names yet to start encouraging attention. As they are “trained” to know and look when their name is called, there are even more opportunities to shape them into highly attentive pups.

I break this attentiveness training into 2 main headings: things I am doing and things the puppy likes doing.

Things I am doing:

The idea is to make being near you constantly rewarding. Not just with treats, as that makes the treats the reward. It’s ME that must be the reward: my affection, my attention, my ’making room’ for them in my world.

It’s dunderhead easy too! If they come to you when you’re busy, take a moment for a pat. Show them what you are doing, let them nose around your computer mouse, encourage them to touch you, and the like. Danes are terrifyingly smart, and don’t be surprised if they start learning words like computer, or cooking, or dusting in short order!

If they get tired of a bone and come to see you, for heavens sake stop and smooch ‘em! The more they want to be with you the more they will learn future tasks by watching you and being a part of what you were doing.

My personal schedule is in chronically low gear. That’s unavoidable due to my disabilities. But I will have to fight the oblivious-to-everything fibro brain fog with unrelenting will–even resting, or watching what little tv I watch will have times when a little tots will look at me.

Looking at me needs rewarding too! It’s attentiveness. Following me is attentiveness. Touching me when I lay down is attentiveness. Sticking their nose into what I’m doing is attentiveness. The more I watch dogs and puppies, the inattentive I realize we humans are!

What They Like To Do:

Exploring, playing, snoozing, cuddling…pups are wonderful! But one of the biggest lessons I learned from Kenai was if I let him go off and do his thing without me, he did. I had unknowingly taught him inattention! Which given his already rather inattentive personality…oops.

So playing toys with a brand new puppy makes me integral to their fun as well, and I become a reward again by being more enjoyable than chewing a bone by themselves. Games like tug, hide n seek, and even keep away can be shaped later into tasks, yes, but it’s just FUN for me too!

Running outside? I play chase me-chase you as much as I can. I can tug with the jolly ball whether standing or sitting. If they bring a toy to me, I can throw it (fetch, yes, glorious, adaptable into any task, fetch!)

What’s this and that games I love too. Investigate, learn the name of it with all its smells and textures and noises may be used later for task work. But right now, I am the “momma” showing them what’s in their world and what to do with it.

The snooze together (at least while touching them) is the best part for me: if you’ve never had a full grown Dane do a total body lean and snore, you don’t know what you’re missing! My scent transfers to them and goes right into that little brain. My heartbeat, and emotions are totally, entirely shared without a word spoken.

A puppy that learns to snooze with me, associates me also with relaxing, which comes in handy if they have a fright out in public sometime. None of these things require them to know their name, though it’s easily taught to them while doing these activities. Puppies communicate perfectly well without words.

Selecting Just The Right Pup

I am afflicted with incurable Dane love, this I know. So a future puppy I would pick to owner/train as my next service dog would naturally be a Great Dane. Aside from a life long love affair with the breed, they also have the size and physical strength for what I need in an SD.

I won’t say I’m fat (I am), I’ll just call it “well insulated”!

I began to formulate a guideline for myself, for choosing a future Great Dane service dog in the last post. The place I started was knowing 1) what I would need from an SD, 2) what I would want but could do without from an SD, and 3) how breeders can give a puppy a head start before they are 8 wks old and coming home with me.

This post is the next step: selecting the puppy that is just right for what I will be asking of them. When I go to pick a puppy, I will be looking for is first and formost a natural attentiveness. Other vital criteria are curiosity, tenacity, calmness, and quickness to learn. Most all puppies have that, but I’m looking for those things in near raucus abundance.

Puppies change, going through stages of development just like humans do. So a puppy will not be the same “person” when they are an adult. Just because a puppy can learn a sit or a down fast doesn’t mean they will do it so easily later on.

An 8 wk old puppy hasn’t been “trained” yet, so what is most visible about them is their innate nature.That is why when I look at a puppy, I am watching for inborn habits, the deeper personality traits that will later result in a behavior that I have “trained”.

The next posts will be how to build, encourage, and shape each of these traits in a new puppy once they are home with me. But they gotta have the tendency to build on, and I have to recognize them in an 8 wk old puppy. As well as “catch” the subtle red flags of a tendency that would make training them harder.

ATTENTIVENESS:

A puppy that would rather play with littermates than hang with me isn’t going to have the innate desire to attend to my needs and wants 24/7, which is an essential part of the work drive of an SD. If the most commonly seen side of a puppy you’re considering is his backside, think again.    I spent a huge amount of time trying to build on my late Kenai’s attentiveness, with limited success. Take it from me, you don’t want to consider a puppy that isn’t a “people person”!        The puppy that leaves a good romp with his or her littermates to come see me is the single most important quality I’m looking for. There isn’t much you can’t teach a dog that wants to interact with you.

After all, how do you train a dog that isn’t paying attention?  So the puppies in the litter that happily and repeatedly come to me, or follow me, even paw me for attention make the candidate list right away!

CURIOSITY:

Puppies are naturally curious little tots, and that’s exactly what a future service dog needs to have. A willingness to pick up, mouth, swat around, and generally interact with anything in their environment morphs into a dog that will have a big skill set.

Selecting canned veggies at a store, pulling out a pan lid, putting dirty clothes in a washer, or finding a bench in a park without my direction are not typical activities of a companion pet. But a puppy that’s willing to adjust to the taste and texture of metal, willing to get their nose into a cabinet, or plays hide and seek can learn those tasks more easily.

Tugging games later become opening the fridge, or hauling a hamper to the laundry room. They will be inclined to pull up covers to help make a bed, or to open and close doors with a strap.   Nosing toys around is where I can start to teach how to turn the lights on or off in a room. Or hitting the automatic door buttons, and even the elevator buttons. A curious puppy enjoys knowing they can affect their environment, and likes to do it.

CALMNESS:

What I don’t want is a super high energy puppy, a nervous and shy puppy, or an easily excited puppy. I have chronic fatigue syndrome (CFS), Lyme disease, and fibromyalgia (FMS). The pain and exhaustion of those conditions means I can’t properly exercise or provide continual activity to a very high energy dog.

Nor will I have the energy for the extra socializing a shy pup will require. A sensitive puppy has potential as an anxiety or medical alert dog, but my physical limitations kinda rule out an extra sensitive little one.   Most Danes are sensitive to their person’s emotional state anyway, so why go too far in that direction if it makes more work for me?

An easily excited dog will have trouble remaining calm and focused in higher stress environments like shopping malls. Which is precicely where I need them to be calm and focused. I do encourage and reward puppies for being calm and quiet, but again, it’s more work if they’re turning into Scooby on you!

So a confident, chilled out fella is the man for me. A puppy that is happy to lay at my feet when nothing’s going on is what I want. His working life will have long down stays while I eat out, or watch a movie. He will have to enjoy the frequent naps and lay down times I need, too.

One thing I’ve noticed about my past Danes in particular is noise sensitivity, so I watch specifically for startling or lack there of. Socializing helps with that, but I’d like most to start out with a bomb-proof pup.

TENACITY:

Opening a knob handled door is not an easy business for a dog. I don’t necessarily need a dog to, but wouldn’t it be great if they could open a closet door to get the blanket for me? It makes an exellent example for the need of a service dog to be willing to keep at it until they “get-r-done”.

Many SD tasks are what trainers refer to a “complex behavior chains”; in other words, there are many different skills involved in completing a task. For a knob door, they have to use their mouths, tighten their jaws around it, turn their heads far enough for it to release, and pull to open.

Some dogs will naturally put all those steps together. Others will have to be taught and rewarded for each one individually, until they are ready in their own minds to make the chain happen in order. (That’s called shaping, btw).

Like attentiveness, tenacity is an integral part of an SD’s work drive. A certain amount of stubborness is good, at least when it comes to mastering what they want to do.

INTELLIGENCE

I’ve posted in the past about how some breeds learn and understand differently than others. Some by repetition, and some by figuring it out themselves.    These are generalizations of course, but overall, a Great Dane tends to happily learn a bit “on their own”.

By that I mean, left to themselves they will make associations, learn habits, and problem solve without your guidance. After all the breed was created to hunt without human assistance. A great book about training a dog with those habits is “When Pigs Fly”.

But having put so much emphasis on choosing a naturally attentive puppy, I should be able to avoid much of the difficulty I had with my late Kenai about changing his attitudes and associations with situations. Once he made up his mind, that was kinda it if ya know what I mean. (Told ya attentiveness is essential!).

So a pup that learns quickly, both on their own and equally well from me is a very good candidate. Even an 8 wk old puppy can learn a sit in just a few tries. Their memory and quickness improves over time but they can learn the basics really fast at that age.

I would like a puppy that is smart enough to problem solve on their own, to initiate or offer an old behavior in a new place or situation. If they need a little direction at first, that’s fine, but a pup with inititive and a willingness to try what worked “over there” is ideal.

To test for that in a new pup, I simply teach a sit with a reward, then move somewhere else to do it again. After maybe 3 sit lessons, I go to another place and look at them, waiting. If they pop a sit, I reward it really big and get myself some soft, fat baby love. (Best part).

****

The next posts will go into more detail, and I’ll be trying to “put together” everything I’ve learned and read over the years now. But this is a big enough order for a little 8 week old!

Where Would I Start Again?

Since I don’t want to abandon this blog now that Kenai is gone, nor am I goin to get another puppy in the immediate future…here’s my temp plan: where would I start with another puppy? Choosing a pup, shaping a pup’s habits, socializing, training foundation skills, etc.

I know what I need from a service dog. I’d need a dog to help me with mobility and anxiety. Under those to words are alot of specific problems: I have fatigue from CFS, brain fog from FMS, balance problems from Meniere’s disease, and joint pain from Lyme disease.

I also have anxiety, triggered by crowds, loud environments, hostile/angry/negative people, and other things that bring up feelings of helplessness or being trapped. A generalized anxiety disorder can incapacitate a person as fast as physical problems.

So a ”mobility” dog is one that wears a harness to help me walk farther, sometimes to get up and down, to keep my balance, and generally get around.   I would also need him to help with the fatigue: he could bring items from the pantry for me, which reduces the energy it takes to cook supper.     Or he could carry in the grocery bags for me, to limit the amount of lifting I have to do.     Anything I can teach a puppy to do for me that lessens the number of steps it takes to accomplish something means the more I can accomplish in my day.     You’d be surprised all the moving parts involved in something as simple as going to the pharmacy.

An anxiety dog is a bit trickier: many if not most dogs have the natural inclination to move away from someone who is upset. An anxiety dog is willing to touch, and make body contact without getting upset themselves. I would need a pup that is able to both help me relax myself, and also calm enough to do things like help me navigate my way through a crowd to a more open space. He would have to be able to focus on his task while I am anxious.

What task skills I’m looking for covers many catagories of assistance, from standard mobility to a bit of guide dog tasks, a few hearing alert skills, and the difficult to train for anxiety/PTSD work. I’d need a very special young puppy.

****

First I’d have to pick a pup with just the right personality traits. A service dog has some serious skill sets, yes, but it is the personality and innate tendencies that make aquiring those skills possible.    One of the first things I’d look for is a breeder that heavily socializes a puppy before 8 wks. Exposure to noises, textures, people of all ages and the like is very important. Especially since there are someplaces that make me anxious.

If a puppy is accustomed to such loud and busy places before he comes to me, he is less likely to absorb my own anxiety about noise and crowds. I will be paying a clicker trainer to help socialize a pup in such places for me while they are little as well, to counter any “absorbing” he does from me.

Many SD programs that breed their own puppies begin “teaching” right from the time a puppy is born. They handle them, introduce tactile sensations like cold wet cloths, they encourage their play habits, curiosity, and being drawn naturally to humans.

Baby play like tug turns into opening cabinets, fridges, and doors. Curiosity turns into a willingness to interact with objects, ie later to pick up a can of green beans. Picking up and carrying a toy turns into retrieving items for a person. Handling results in a pup that isn’t too body sensitive to accept the tug and pull of harnesses or inevitable bumping.

So when a day comes that I go looking for a new Dane pup to train as an assistance dog, what I look for is attentiveness, curiosity, being undisturbed by noises, tenacity to keep at something, and a quickness to learn something “new” from me. Tall order!

I would love to have a relationship with a breeder where they would either give this sort of intensive play reward attention to a puppy before 8 weeks, or would allow me to interact with their little ones before 8 wks so I can find and shape just the right little love.

This gives a puppy a substantial head start in the roughly 2 year journey to becoming a service dog. In an ideal world…now wouldn’t that be lovely!

Do Not Miss Me, My Loves…by Lisa Harmon

 January 6, 2012 my beautiful boys crossed the bridge…I couldn’t watch them be sick and miserable anymore, knowing they would never be well again.

I could not keep them lingering, though they might have made a few more months before their bodies were really wrecked. Kenai’s spirit already kinda was; that confident bombproof rugged boy was so timid and fearful.

He and his brother both were down yet again with Ehrlichiosis, and neither could tolerate the antibiotic treatments without gastritis, pain, nausea etc. Unlike other past loves, it didn’t “feel” like it was time to put them to sleep.

Yet my head chose to let them go now before they were gaunt, given up in spirit and ruined in body. So I held them as they passed, and I swear their spirits stayed with me that night. I could feel their presence, and have no words really to tell you what it was like.

Then after hours of tears, I felt them ”say” goodbye to me, one at a time, in their own ways. Kenai with his signature softness, BB with his playfulness…They were then free, and gone.

Their spirits left, together as they had always been. I hope against hope, and pray for all the mercy heaven can afford that they never ”come back” to check on me. I miss them so terribly, but I want nothing more than for them to have such joy and happiness, running and playing that they do not miss me.

I haven’t yet sterilized and given away their beds, nor have I given away what is left of their food. I need to, soon. I also do not know what to do with this blog: it was started to cover the socializing and service dog training of a majestic little boy who is not here anymore.

But there is so much of my life, his life, life in general in the archives, and knowledge in the pages that I hate to just end the blog. Perhaps a new purpose for this blog will present itself? Until then, I will keep it going. And I will keep going until I also find a new purpose for myself.

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