New Puppy Questions

  Having new puppy is an exciting thing, and it takes some time with a puppy to become familiar with their personalities, their food and water needs, their energy level, and such. So this page will try to answer some frequently asked questions about puppies ages 2-6 months. I also recommend reading “puppy basics” page for methods of housebreaking etc.

How much food and water does my puppy need?

Water is a neccessary thing. I will keep a bowl of fresh water down all the time for my dogs. Some puppies will barely touch it, some will drink it dry as often as you fill it. I judge the needed amount by the color of their urine. If the color is noticably yellow, I try to get them to drink more. If they’re peeing every 20 minutes and the color is clear, you might want to reduce their intake a bit. I stop giving water 2 hours before bed, to make “holding it” through the night a little easier for them.

Puppies or dogs that have had a surgery can have changes in their urination. Many times a puppy will drink and pee copiously after surgery, and it is not really worrisome unless they cannot control their bladder or the effect doesn’t wear off after a couple weeks. If this happens, I will get a full kidney panel blood test and urinalysis to see what’s going on. This has happened with three of my dogs, but not others.   

Most food bags will give a cup per day amount to feed according to age or weight. These are guidelines, and will need adjusting for your puppy. Some pups are chowhounds and will eat until they founder, and others will be picky or fussy about eating. I do measure the amounts, so I can control weight, because an overweight Dane of any age can develop all kinds of bone and joint problems.

I start with the amount on the food bag for a week or so. If the puppy is getting too round and I can’t see their ribs, I cut the kibble back by 1/2 cup at their twice daily feedings. If they are too thin and the ribs are too visible, I increase the kibble. Kenai and BB are chowhounds, and will eat as much as I put down. After a week on the recommended amount, they were just too hungry and getting a bit too slim. Since Kenai is growing faster, he is eating 3 cups of kibble twice a day at 12 weeks old. BB doesn’t get as much exercise, so he is only getting 2 1/2 cups twice a day. When they hit growth spurts, I increase as needed.

If a puppy is at a good body weight and they are hungry or unsatisfied, I will add a spoonfull of canned food with a higher fat content. Just like humans, a higher fat content will satisfy hunger. But the amount isn’t enough to make them overweight. If this doesn’t do the trick, then take the same food amount and split it into three meals: morning, 4-5 pm, and a smaller amount 2 hours before bed.

Great Danes are notoriously picky eaters at times. I’ve had some older puppies that just flat refused to eat until they were too thin to let it go on. Hot weather and stress will affect their eating habits. The first thing to do is go to the vet and rule out any medical problems that might cause them not to eat. If there is nothing wrong, let them go hungry. They won’t usually starve themselves.

Those that don’t eat in a two or more days, try changing to one or two different foods. You can entice them to eat while changing over by adding really stinky canned food to their kibble, or the prepared canine foods that have tripe (stink!), liver, or even cat food. Some dogs actually prefer the kitty stuff. If after a couple other foods they don’t eat, they are just being picky, so stick with the one they seemed to like best and use additives to the kibble.

My Dane puppy’s growth 

Many people new to Great Danes are disturbed when their puppy’s rump is suddenly taller than their shoulders, or their back begins to hunch. Don’t worry, nearly all Dane pups will do this at some point. They grow incredibly fast, and it’s not always even. No big deal, their body can change every week!

For the first six months, you can expect them to grow as much as an inch a week and a pound a day during growth spurts. They will grow like weeds, then slow down, then spurt again. Most Dane pups will look like rescues, all skinny and lanky. Danes will normally grow more in height than in width for their first year. You want to keep them thin and trim–if you can’t see the ribs when they stand, cut back their food. This protects their growing bones and joints.

Is my puppy allergic to something?  

Some puppies have allergies to ingredients in their foods. You’ll see scratching, chewing, dull coats, intestinal upset, and excess dander. Allergies are tough, because isolating the allergen is a trial and error process. And things in the environment will cause the same symptoms. My boys all would start to itch if they’ve laid on bedding or carpets that have been cleaned with pet oder accident cleaners. Even some detergents would bother them. So rule that out first.

The common culprits of canine food allergies are grains. But finding a grain free food for a Dane puppy that doesn’t have way too much protien (more than 23%) can be very hard, if not impossible. So I try to find out which grain it is. Often corn or wheat is the allergen, so switch your pup to a rice based food. This will resolve the problem quite often. My late Shabah got far worse, which his how we discovered his allergy was to rice.

Some allergies are so severe that a vet should consider prescribing an allergy medicine for the puppy. There is no reason to let them suffer until you can find the cause of the problem. Medicine can even help reveal the cause, as it will control the symptoms but not always alleviate them. So if a detergent, an air freshener, or food contains their allergens, their symptoms will worsen enough to let you know.  

Can too much exercise hurt my puppy?

The short answer is yes, but the amount that can cause a healthy puppy with good joints to show pain really depends on the type of exercise. If your puppy is chewing at their legs, seem unable to get comfortable when laying down, or are limping, go to the vet. Have a thorough orthopedic exam, and if needed, have x-rays of a limping leg. Hip dysplasia, panosteitis, and other orthopedic problems often show up in the first six months, or even as late as 12 months.

Some Dane pups will nibble their legs after a hard play session, and there isn’t anything terribly wrong save for overexertion. As fast as they grow, you will often see a small amount of “growing pains” in a pup. But they also recover quickly, so if yours isn’t and there is no bone or joint problems, then you need to really consider the type of exercise your puppy is getting.

You would have to walk a marathon on leash to cause a healthy puppy pain. Walking is generally a safe exercise for a puppy. Running and jumping up for toys or off of objects are the most common cause of injury and pain.

NEVER TEACH YOUR DANE TO JUMP FOR TOYS! They are way too big and heavy to sustain such a pounding on their joints, and prolonged play of this type can both shorten their lives because of early arthritis, or even cause fractures in a puppy.

Some puppies have way more energy to burn off than their growing bodies can take. So find a lake, pool, or pond to get them swimming in. Water exercise is fantastic for Danes, building strength and burning energy without the joints having to bear weight.

Great Danes are a prissy breed, typically not liking water, so you may have to do a little enticing and training to get them to enjoy their swim, or at least do it when you ask them to. But some Danes think they’re Labs and can’t wait to make a splash!

My puppy has diarrhea and/or vomiting, what do I do?

Go to the vet! All kinds of things can cause diarrhea in puppies–parasites, bacteria, high protien foods, worms, and illnesses like parvo. If there is also vomiting, quit reading this and go to the vet. Some pups will eat too much food or junk in the yard and toss up their meal. Especially if they ate just before or after exercise. But if they wretch more than once, can’t bring anything solid up, or have a fever, get going.

If the vet has ruled out disease, obstructions, parasites, worms, overheating, or stomach problems, pay more attention to what your pup is swallowing. Rawhide, rocks, chewed up chair legs, torn up socks, filling in toys, or chunks of balls can cause regurgitation, and puppies do swallow whatever they can. Kenai is a rock eater, and I am forever pulling rocks out of his mouth. His brother chews but doesn’t inhale. (Good boy, BB!)

Also consider the pup’s food. High protien from multiple meat sources can cause diarrhea, as can allergies, not enough fiber, and too much fat. Try a fish based kibble, as it is often good for sensitive tummies and has a single protien source. Lamb and rice is also a good kibble to try, though the meat is a little harder to digest than fish.

If the loose stools continue and there is no other reason for it, I give my pups some metamucil crackers to firm up the stools while I look for a kibble they can tolerate better. Once I’ve switched over, I reduce the amount of fiber cracker until I know if the food will work for them. And if they have a problem with grains, you’ll know right away with the metamucil!

Can vaccinations make them sick?

I have an entire page devoted to vaccines, and it is good to read. Most puppies will not get sick from their vaccinations. That said, certain breeds have been reacting more than others. Weimeraners, and other large/giant breeds seem to not handle vaccinations as well.

Occationally other latent (nonsymptomatic) illnesses can appear after vaccination, since the immune system is taking a sudden “hit” and cannot control the existing problem anymore. Bacterial or yeast overgrowths, infections, or intestinal parasites will suddenly flare up coincidentally.   

Some puppies can react to vaccinations, particularly the “multivalent” shots, or combo shots with 5 or 7 pathogens. If they have reacted, you’ll absolutely know in 48 hours–there is a very high fever, extreme lethargy, severe swelling of the lower leg joints, and sometimes vomiting and diarrhea in addition. Get to the vet immediately, as vaccine reactions are often so disabling, the puppy is put to sleep. Don’t wait. www.greatdanelady.com has a good imformative site about vaccine reations and their treatment.

It is not unusual for a pup to be a little lazy, or have a low fever, and little appitite for a few days after a vaccination. Just as we can feel a bit punky after getting a flu shot, puppy’s immune system has kicked into overdrive to create antibodies. They will rebound quickly.

My puppy has sores on their belly

There are two common causes for sores on a puppy’s belly: staph bacteria and vaginitis. Puppy immune systems are not fully developed, and it is not unusual for puppies fighting one problem to develop another. A friend of mine had a pup fighting allergies that suddenly caught a staph infection.

Staph sores will have a sickly sweet, yeasty smell. Rarely does a skin staph infection become dangerous to the pup, unless is goes untreated for a long time. A vet can give you a cream or script to treat it. Be religious with it, though, so you don’t risk making the bacteria resistant.

Vaginitis in female puppies doesn’t just affect the vulva. The sores can cover most of the belly too. They don’t have the strong odor of staph sores, and don’t typically drain as much. It too can be treated by a vet, and isn’t dangerous to the pup. Uncomfortable, but not life-threatening.

When I go out with a young puppy, under 16 weeks old, or any puppy that goes someplace where there might be sick dogs, I use an antibacterial wipe when we come home. I will wipe down their entire body. A bath is also an option, but my boys despise baths. So a wipe is easier.

The kitchen wipes with bleach are way too strong for a puppy’s skin, and can cause terrible irritation. So I use a product called Ox-E drops, at www.firstchoicenaturals.com to soak the washcloth in. Getting the cloth sudsy with an antibacterial soap will also work, but you need to rinse off the soap a little bit. You can use bleach but please dilute to one capful per gallon of water.

My puppy is scared of stuff

When we bring a pup home at 8 weeks or more, they have entered a behavioral phase called “fear imprinting”. Up to this age, it’s all curiousness and adventure. When you have a puppy that is skittish, it is very, very, VERY important that you socialize and expose this pup to every kind of noise, movement, and environment you can think of. Otherwise, that fear will imprint and be much more difficult to change later on.

The absolute worst thing you can do for a timid pup is to “soothe” them and avoid what upsets them. Your emotions and approach are of paramount importance. If you relate to your world with a happy and fun attitude, it will indeed rub off on the little sponges we call young puppies. The more uncertain your pup is, the more calm and happy you need to make their new world.

When your pup startles, you want to encourage them to go check out what made them nervous. Do NOT pet them while they are scared! It only encourages that fearful state. Get all happy and curious yourself, going up to the object, using super favorite treats to bring the pup forward on their own. Don’t bring the object to them, they need to go to it. When they do come closer, especially if they have a sniff, give lots of affection and praise.

What you want to do is teach them to get past a fright, and investigate. A dog will spend their lives encountering new things, and must be able to regain their composure on their own. There are a couple pages with more help about this: “Socialization”, and ‘My Dane is Fearful”. We cannot control how the pup developed before you brought him or her home, but how he or she develops in your home is very much up to you!

Grooming

Dogs will have their parts messed with all their lives, from grooming to vet exams, so getting your puppy used to handling right away makes such things far less upsetting to them. Young Dane puppies don’t really need much grooming, but the younger you introduce them to baths and nail clippings the better.

Like all new things, it’s up to you to make a bath or a nail clip a fun experience. Many Danes despise getting wet, like Kenai does. So using super special treats that they cannot pass up and don’t get often will help make grooming something they are at least willing to tolerate.

Brushing–I use a “glove” brush, that I put on my hand to brush him with. It’s like petting really, and rare is the pup that doesn’t like that! A happy voice, lots of good boys, and treats if he picked up his leg for me, or stretched out his neck since it feels good was all Kenai needed. I did this almost every day, and made it our touching time and a reward.

For pups that don’t like repellant or deoderant sprays, just give a single spray and brush, treat, or touch them until they’re comfortable again. Then another spray. With daily brushing and spraying, the pup learns that the spray means treats and affection, and they get used to the noise and feel of it.

Baths–I started by having water shy Kenai in the bathroom when I get a bath, dropping several liver treats on his bed while I lathered up. Puppies learn from just watching, too. Then when I wanted to wash him, we began with the wet washcloths and handfuls of treats. Lots of affection too. Slowly I introduced getting his body wet the same way, with affection, treats, and fun.

Always slow down the process if the pup is showing too much stress from it: squirming hard to get away, shaking, or vocalizing. If all the pup can take at one time is a single wet leg, then wet the leg and go play for awhile. Slower is better, because if you upset them too much, that fear imprints and it takes longer for the puppy to become used to baths.

Nail clipping–every time you mess with a puppy’s feet, break out the toys and treats. Don’t be stingy with them either, especially if the pup doesn’t care for their feet being messed with. Clipping will need to be done every week or two, for the rest of their lives. So getting used to it, learning to hold still, or even not care about it is essential. 

Kenai couldn’t have cared less about his nail clip, but BB hated it. So we clipped one nail, and made a huge fuss about what a good boy he was, feeding him treats like they were a meal and playing. Then it was another nail. When we began, we only got one or two nails a day clipped. And we did it every day. He still doesn’t like it, but he tolerates it without fussing now.

When should I begin training and what should I teach?

I begin training a pup from the moment we meet. An 8 week old pup needs to learn what you want and don’t want from them. Things like not chewing my hands, playing gently with people, not peeing on the floor, and walking on a leash are the first lessons from day one.

Also certain “commands”:  sit when I am putting their leash on, or set their food down. And come is a very very big neccessity. I also teach down as well, so they develop a habit of laying down where I want them, like not in front of the door.

With these tiny youngsters, it isn’t a “formal” training, but simple things that are part of their daily lives. Like giving me a pretty sit before I toss their toy, or looking at me when I call their name. Lots of patience and gentleness is the way to go. There are pages on this blog with the methods I use to teach the little ones their basic manners.

By 10 weeks old, before puppy class, I begin teaching them to come off leash, and stay for as long as they are able. They must wait by the door in a sit until I have their leash on, and they have to wait for me to go out the door first. They also have to stay still while the vet messes with their body parts, poor things.

By now, they are awfully good at sits and downs and comes, which is good because the 3-4 month old “terrible twos” are coming. If they have the habits down, it is easier to remind them what they are supposed to do when they suddenly don’t feel like it!

After their 12 or 14 week shots, my boys go to puppy school, either formal classes or my own practices. I’ve done it alot, so I know the commands and how to teach them, but I still like to take them to puppy class. Kenai’s trainer has had an emergency, so his formal classes are put off until probably 16 weeks, but he is still going to learn more formally.

I’m having “practice times” at home where we go through the sits and downs and comes when I ask for no particular reason. Kenai learns “stand” so I can wash his muddy belly and feet, and sit/stay while I get the food ready. He is supposed to down/stay when I eat, and no mooching. And at the puppy store, Kenai has to sit and stay while I write the check, and sit when someone comes up to him.

I expect a bit more of puppies as they grow, because the attention span is increasing, and they are able to pay attention more. I will use treats less and less, and the behavior I want eventually is habit. It’s all about patience with the tots, and affection at appropriate times.

My puppy’s behavior has changed, is it normal?

Yes. At 3-4 months old, puppies begin developing their independence and a sense of themselves. For some pups, the stage is mild, and for others, they can be jeckle and hyde. The easy little tyke that did anything you wanted will suddenly refuse to sit, or pull on the leash. They play the “catch me if you can” game, and repeatedly try doing something you correct them for. It is the “terrible twos” of the canine world. It can be frustrating and perplexing.

The thing to remember, and I’m trying myself right now, is that it will pass! As long as you calmly but firmly enforce the rules, continue their routines, and encourage their training, you’ll all make it through. You may have to crate them when they are out of control, or be more stern if they return to chewing your hands like Kenai does, or get a gentle leader to stop the leash pulling.

But don’t lose your cool at them–I have, and most everyone will, if their sweetie has become a demon child! It happens, so crate them and go out to eat, or pull weeds, or get a massage before you blow up. It won’t kill them to sit in a crate while you cool off. You have to maintain your calmness for your authority as their pack leader to be effective. Tough job, having toddlers.

It is a phase, and they have to go through it, sometimes learning the same lessons over and over. Use no more intensity in their correction than you need to, to stop unwanted behavior. And at the same time, be more affectionate and encouraging when they are being good. Make the contrast very sharp, and they will eventually get over the attitude!

My puppy’s chewing everything

Puppies cut teeth twice, at 6 weeks for the baby teeth, and again around 6 months for the adult teeth. The trick to keeping them from gnawing off the dining room table leg, or yours, is to both correct chewing on the wrong things and to provide a variety of chew toys that they like. If they won’t stop biting you, get up and walk away. If they follow and nip your ankles, correct them, and redirect their attention to a beef chip or rawhide.

And play with them and their chews–the more interesting the toy is, the less interesting your favorite sweater is. Kenai will return to a bone he left in favor of my hand if I make it move or do something interesting. If I swish it from side to side, or run it between his legs and back, the movement triggers a chase instinct, and suddenly the same old boring bone is a hunting trophy. Balls are great for that too.

If movement doesn’t interest your pup as much, smear a bit of peanut butter inside the folds of a rawhide bone, or put kibble inside a puppy kong. You can also do the “bait and switch” if you have more than one dog, like I sometimes do with my two current boys: if Kenai shows interest in what BB has, I get BB interested in what Kenai’s bored with. When they swap toys, they think they’ve pulled something off, and I get a break!

I’ve even put on hand cream when they start getting insistant about mouthing my hands, and they lick instead of chew. I praise the licking for a short time, them get one of their very best favorite beef chips or rawhide and get them chewing on that.

The younger the pup, the more easily their attention can be distracted. So don’t let stuff like chewing on the wrong things slide because they are so young and cute. As a rule, the older they get, the sharper the teeth, and harder a habit is to break.

Love your puppy as much as he loves you, and learn about his developmental stages, so you are aware of what’s happening within him and why….”A man’s wisdom gives him patience” Biblical Proverb.