Choices from America…by Lisa Harmon

AMERICAN DANES

Overall, I’m not pleased with the state of Great Danes in America. They’ve become either tiny and delicate, or disproportionately tall and scrawny. When I was young it was typical for even a fawn male, which tends to be smaller than say a mantle, to weigh in about 170 pounds.

This is a nice quality Dane here, but still very small and to my eye, insubstantial for an intact male. Back in the day, ya didn’t see the average Dane with long chicken legs, snipey heads, and narrow chests outside of poor quality puppy mills. It’s hard to find even a good male like the one in this pic these days.

I believe the rewarding of AKC show judges for “elegant” and “refined” has weakened the Great Dane overall. My opinion, for what it’s worth. And the explosion of uninformed pet owners that breed without a clue to what makes a truly beautiful, sound Dane has made the selection of Great Danes a frustrating experience for anyone who remembers what Danes used to look like, move like, and their former longevity.

It’s been 40 yrs since I met my first Dane, and the widespread weenie-ness of Great Danes I see these days sent me looking for European bloodlines a few years ago. The European breeders have generally maintained the working dog body: shorter, heavy boned, muscluar and athletic Dane.

This intact brindle is more like what I remember, and what I admire as the traditional standard. This dog could work for years and never wear out. If he could pull a cart, he could pull me up a steep slope once in awhile without developing arthritis at 5 yrs old.

My philosophy is a dog was created to work for and with humans. Once upon a time, they weren’t accessories, not intended for nothing more than to be well, decorative. Since I need a Dane that can work, can bear weight, can carry a pack, I cannot have a delicate decoration.

That being said, there are some American Breeders with strong, well built, substantial dogs to choose from. And I’ve stuck to the desire for ENS and rules of seven socializing that the breeder must do before an 8 wk old comes home with me. I will certainly clicker train, and use the “Control Unleashed Puppy” once I get them, but the breeder has as much or more to do with a pups future success than most people realize.

My American Breeder Choices

Saravilla Danes has American Danes, with the harl lines, which produce harlequins, mantles, and occasional blacks. They also work with ChromaDane, who won’t have pups available even next year. They are excellent breeders using ENS and other socializing techniques in their pre-7wk old puppies.

http://saravillagreatdanes.com/

There is nothing insubstantial about their dogs, and I like that. Unfortunately I don’t prefer the harl/mantle color for Danes, just as a matter of personal tastes. But if their dogs have the goods for a working dog, I gotta put on my big girl panties and care less about superficial stuff like coat color.

Saravilla requires a good kibble, and approves of neutering after sexual maturity even for companions. She also is a welcoming and visitor-friendly lady. So a trip to Ohio is in my near future! My only concern is working dogs tend to have higher energy levels, and having Chronic Fatigue…

I may ask for a show quality male, and have a go at conformation shows. It’s expensive and alot of work, but it is the best way to learn what really makes a dog’s body structually sound, what it takes to have smooth ergonomics so the joints last, and a tolerant disposition. All of which is essential for a working dog.

Being an experienced Dane owner, I got the basics of conformation: a straight topline, good angles in the stack, a nicely shaped head. But there’s a big difference between an experienced owner’s eye, and a breeder/shower’s eye. There’s much to learn there.

Green Bean, the big beautiful black Dane!

It’s a strange name for such a majestic, laid back fellow. But he’s no scrawny string bean. His owner strictly follows the GDCA code of ethics in breeding. I’ve known them from Facebook for awhile now, and they seriously know their Dane genetics!

Green Bean is not only gorgeous and well built. He is a (get this) a Dock Diving Dane, who watches the fireworks in the park, and never gets in a flap.

I’m aware of the “black dog syndrome”, and would expect perhaps more access challenges if one of Beanie Boy’s pups becomes my service dog. But heck, any Dane attracts serious attention in a grocery store or restaurant.

I have come to love Bean’s owner, and trust their judgement. They were “there” for me during the heartbreaking ordeal with Levi, and gladly volunteered to help me find a puppy that I would have a much better chance of success with. Kindness makes a world of difference to me.

LIBERTY DANES https://www.facebook.com/#!/libertydanes.lrs?sk=info

I’ve not had much contact with this lady yet, but I do now have a phone number. She not only trains, shows, and uses her harl lines for assistance dogs, she has a Dane SD herself. I am hoping like crazy she will agree to mentor me, teach me, and make a durn good owner trainer out of me. Her expertise in puppy aptitude testing would make a huge difference for me, reducing the chances of another wash out.

Again, the harl lines I don’t prefer, but even if I purchase a black Bean boy, I hope very much she will become a world of help to me. She has experience in both the conformation ring and the service dog training arena. And the center she works and trains at is only 3 hours drive time from my home.

First Pothole In The Road

 Levi’s vet visit showed him to be 18″ tall, and weigh 31.4 pounds. He’s grown quite a lot, the little stinker!

He got his vaccination, so next month is the final shot in the puppy series. They were pushing me to give him several others too, like leptospirosis and rabies. Huh?

He’s too young to load up like that, and no he’s not getting the rabies which is a live though altered virus until he’s 6 mo old when law requires.

A conversation with the author of “Control Unleashed” finally filled out the what’s-going-on-with-Levi picture for me. Yes, he does a lot of displacement and the book provided the anxiety part of the puzzle, but the growly/biting thing is called conflict aggression. He seemed aggressive at times, but I didn’t want to believe it.

It’s essentially a dog’s intense, even hidden, anxiety building up until it explodes. Often the dog seems better in public, but at home often takes out the accumulated stress on the people and animals they live with.

They will often go up to strangers on their own and seem fine or suddenly get scared and run away. The majority of targets of the aggression oddly, are gentle and quiet people. The behavior is also usually worse in the evenings. Levi to a “t”.

For instance, my nephew came over and Levi did wonderfully, with a tad of submissive peeing, but no barks or spooks. They played a little and he got lots of affection. Not ten minutes after Evan left, the chewing, tearing up, growling and biting at me started.

It is upsetting to me, to have a bona fide case of aggression of any type be evident in a 10 week old puppy. He’ll be 13 weeks old Friday. The ray of sunshine is in fact, how young he is though. We still have 3 weeks in that socializing/learning window of the first 4 mo of life to help him adjust and learn coping skills for frustration.

I’m still trying to really grasp what that means for how I interact with him, and the war between the alpha dominance believers and the positive reinforcement believers becomes personal now. It isn’t theory vs theory on an intellectual level, and I don’t really have room for error with Levi.

My vet’s suggestions I won’t follow because I know from experience of Levi and other aggressive dogs that physical confrontation with a dog being aggressive is both counterproductive long term and potentially dangerous.

“Just be more intense than him” they said. Huh? I mean, being more aggressive to an aggressive dog will teach them not to be aggressive? No.

But at the same time, I’ve seen how clicking and treating Levi for letting go or leaving it turns into him going back to those items later when he wants food or attention. Clicker training can be used by a smart pup to further their own ends, to take advantage.

So harshness will backfire, and the gentler clicker methods can be manipulated by him if I’m not careful and worsen the situation. And all the while I risk worsening his anxiety/insecurity too. Like I said, no room for error on my part.

***

I’m coming up with alternatives to some of the training and redirecting I’ve been doing, as well as understanding what things have worked and why. First is no longer clicking and treating for most let go or leave it, particularly if the object is a repeat grab.

That situation is where being less gentle and coaxing, more firm will help me. No more asking vs telling, treating, or frequent attention about it.

That’s a wiser type of ignoring than just pretending it isn’t happening. If he begins to escalate or continue using it to get attention on demand, I have the expen. A negative consequence.

As for biting in frustration, the combo of the expen when he’s not managable such as after my nephew left, and a touching/petting exercise our trainer Lisa S taught us during our training time Monday I hope will start making progress.

It’s a touch or petting starting from back end towards front end when he’s quiet, then click and treat for not reacting. If he reacts a little, moving the touch back to where he didn’t react last time and click and treating can counter-condition.

I’ve got to add for bite inhibition that if he reacts more than a little, and keeps nipping, he gets a deep voice firm warning “no bite”, and if it continues, he goes in the expen.

Other things to continue is restraint practice when he’s calm. Much like a vet restrains to do something, I hold him in a position andwait until he stops fussing, then click and reward. Exercise too is a good tool: I have to watch how much running about he gets since he’s shown some growth discomfort already but he needs exercise for the endorphins and other feel good hormones.

Social outings also have to be kept up. He’s very good in public at the time, but I have to ensure that he doesn’t have bad experiences.

Outings that involve physical exercise, that don’t involve chewing, in addition to mental stimulation will be the best for him. Like our river park he enjoys so much!

Again, I have to be both calm, low pitch in voice, with head up and shoulders back. Confidence on my part can reduce any stress he feels about people, places, and things.

He loves the treats and interaction of our training times, so I need to find a way to even increase those in frequency without letting them get linked to his demands for attention or food. He’ll be getting alot of negative (“no bite”, “ah-uh” etc), so there has to be a balance and stark contrast with the positives.

What I did after my nephew left and Levi wound up in the pen for a few minutes until he was calm was first give him a stuffed Kong ball, then do a short little obedience practice. It was in between meals, and about 5 minutes after the Kong was empty, so I don’t think any of it was linked to my nephew.

The hardest thing for me is not to get frustrated, or angry, when I am especially tired or in pain. Might as well ask someone with GAD/PTSD to cure themselves before they get a dog. It is very frustrating to me: I had one path of training in mind when I got him and now that assistance dog training is on ice indefinitely.

Levi has to be a trustworthy and enjoyable pet before anything else. Given that he’s a Great Dane, he will be 70-80 pounds in just a three months, so aggression of any kind is absolutely intolerable in Danes. He can still be a puppy and do serious damage with a bite. When grown, it can be catastrophic.

The clock is ticking.

Good Days, Bad Days…by Lisa Harmon

Saturday and Sunday I was really fighting the fatigue (CFS), even with the Mitosynergy, and Sytropin. My brain is all but blue screened and the muscles are both weak and heavy as lead.

But we still made our outings. Saturday morning we returned to Finley River Park, as they were setting up for a cancer charity event. Levi had a mixed bag of reactions: some people he went right up to, and others he was spooked by.

We played a game with things that made him nervous: run up, touch, click and treat, and run away. The motor that was inflating a kids game house startled him, so we’d run up, touch the inflating item, then run away. It was a partial success but not total.

He is really shy of kids, even older kids. Monday at the courthouse with our trainer he did much better and was petted by a young girl, though. Fingers crossed. He’s much better when we’re out and around. Lisa S thinks its because there’s so many other distractions around him in public.

Sunday night was a really bad one with the frustration/biting etc. Uhg. He’d had lots of outdoor time, plenty of food and treats, even an outing Sunday morning. But come evening, oh boy.

Here he is discovering the joys of a jolly ball. He’s finally big enough to actually play with it!

He has a vet appointment for his 12 week vaccination Monday afternoon, so I wouldn’t be surprised if he’s a bit pooky for a day or two. But better that than coming down with parvo or distemper. His growth is pretty good, though he still is slightly turning out his front feet. Perhaps they will straighten up as the growth spurt slows down.

Starting today, Levi is going to have regular xpen time, so I can get a shower every day, or eat a meal in peace. Maybe even finished “Control Unleashed Puppy”? He’s going to have to learn to cope with his feelings on his own, since I cannot seem to alter them much. Almost 3 wks in, he isn’t responding to rewarding self-control exercises as well as I’d hoped.

I hope being confined doesn’t make him worse when he gets out, but jeez, I need a break sometimes. He’s going and grabbing the things I’ve practiced leave it with just to get attention and treats. He’s deliberately doing things to manipulate me now. This 24/7 demand for attention is too much to take. He’s gotta learn to lay down and chill out and leave me be sometimes.

 Levi really does well with men, and I was extra proud that he left the man’s tie alone when the guy bent over to pet him!

It’d be just like Levi to see what do ties taste like…but he didn’t. Good boy.

He even walked within about 10 feet of the mower there at the courthouse, though he was in a bit of a hurry. No loitering to sniff around that noisy thing…

He was a good boy during his training time, and wore out afterwards! He never barked or anything when the Orkin man came to the house. (He’s still doing outside only, since the grey shark here will eat things on the ground and lick floors…).

We’ll see how the regular pen time affects him. Got my fingers crossed.

Training Me…by Lisa Harmon

If you only ever buy one book about dogs, it should be “Control Unleashed: The Puppy Program” by Leslie McDevitt. That is a serious blanket statement, huh?

Whether you think you have a problem or you don’t have a problem to work on with a puppy, you should get it and read it anyway.

The author clearly and easily shows how something that turns up in adolescence like fear of strangers was actually present in the puppy but went unnoticed. Since it went unnoticed and thus unaddressed, it escalated during the intense development stage of adolescence.

For me, the intense behaviors Levi displayed when he first came to my home (and still does) mostly fall into “constant arousal displacement”. His pacing, biting to the point of bloodletting, tearing up clothes, enjoying some people’s attention but avoiding others, whining and growling for no obvious reason, peeing excessively, extreme food drive, chewing on or eating anything he could get his teeth around…

On a scale of one to ten, I’d guess Levi was about an 8 in the anxiety that causes such displacement behavior. It wasn’t me or my emotional state, it was his; triggered by sounds, social interaction, and the dramatic change in his environment. He was going after me to bite and beg because I spent the most time with him (15-20 hours/day).

He isn’t as “good in public” as I had attributed to him, according to the book. The anxiety about social interaction is still present, so the little things I’d noticed aren’t excessive worry on my part, they are clues to when he feels pressure. Thankfully, the social anxiety isn’t as strong as the anxiety from the home change.

Now I can look back and recognize why Levi had better days than others in many cases, and it correlates amazingly well with what we did and where we went. He’s showing the most anxiety about children in public, and visitors/noises at our home. Sounds that bother him at home don’t bother him in public nearly as much.

Now before you think “there she goes again, blowing things out of proportion and being reactive herself…” This knowledge actually takes the pressure off ME. I know for a fact that Levi isn’t reacting to me, it’s not that I have to change myself  to help him, nor do I neccessarily have to work so darn hard!!

The solution: dealing with the underlying anxiety, not the behavior it causes by providing 3 major things to Levi. One is allowing him to “escape” from a situation that stresses him, and definitely rewarding him if he returns to it on his own.

This is one thing I haven’t really done well–I’ll let him run to the end of the leash but then I call him back and try to help him interact and stuff. Oops. Often I will click and treat when he’s calmer, or give the person a treat for him, but I haven’t helped him relax about the situation first.

Second is information that the “threat” isn’t really threatening, by allowing him to check out the person, place, or thing at his own pace. Watching me interact with whatever and enjoying it is also very helpful to him.

And thirdly, teaching him that he can use his own behavior to calm himself and make the stressor less stressful. Sniffing, chewing, and foraging he likes to do, so I need to find ways to incorporate them as part of the training and socializing, not just the in-between training.

I’ve done this some, and our trainer has this concept down much better than I do, at least in terms of allowing the sniffing/chewing/foraging more. I need to make the chewing a reward, as a positive association with a stressor in a more formal and consistent way.

Anyway, you can tell how much I have yet to learn and I’ll digest then apply the exercises in the book to help us both!! Thank God for smart people, huh?

Doing Better All the Time…by Lisa Harmon

I remember someone else who used to stand there and say “nope, not playin in the sprinkler”…Levi 12 wks old

Today Levi is 12 weeks old! My little amigo has just 1 month left in that relatively easy socializing and super fast learning window (the first 16 weeks of life). EEK! Four more weeks of trying to ensure he has a good experience with a wide variety of places, people, and other dogs.

Of course, socializing goes on (or should) for a dog’s whole life, but the first 3 months of life is when a puppy most easily accepts new experiences that will shape their behaviors most of their lives.

Levi’s basic obedience class was Thursday night, and after the class there is a social time for the dogs. Last night’s best bud for Levi was a Jack Russell mix named Finley. Finley is a high energy guy, but fairly well mannered about his play so he and Levi had themselves a really good game of nip and swat.

The same didn’t translate to a retriever named Jack, who was very physical whether a dog liked it or not. Levi didn’t like it. They started off good, and Levi being Levi approached nice and gave a very gentle paw on the nose, a few gentle play bows. But Jack was both hyper and all over him, which spooked him.

I called Levi away, and he avoided Jack the rest of the play time. He was spooked enough that he didn’t want people to pet him either, though he’d met all the two legged folks already. Thankfully he happily returned to Finley, so we let him play a few moments then decided it was time to go.

As Levi gets bigger, I think he won’t be so intimidated by more physical playing strangers. Between his burgeoning size and the testosterone-fueled confidence of the 4 month old stage he will soon enter, Levi will probably be as full of rumpus as Jack is!

As for his class, the program was about learning a polite greeting and learning to settle. Levi already has these habits naturally. The poor teacher could get him to jump or spaz! Not good for demo but sure made me proud!

Since there was no jumping to practice teaching him not to jump, I used the time to do a few other things for him. One was get used to the barking, with a click and treat when the barks happened. No problem for toots. He settles right down next to me and stays calm.

Another was brace front: I just use a lure to get him in front of me when I’m ready to stand or sit.

Young as he is, this is only for positioning and preparing him. Soon enough this will be a mainstay of his working life, so I want to make it a default behavior.

Default behaviors are simply things a pup will do automatically, either by reinforcing something they do on their own, or by repetition.

Essentially, a default behavior is a habit.

There are two parts to a brace front. This coming into position, and also accepting pressure on their shoulders. Both parts need a click and a treat to reward. Levi loves his food, so he’s up for anything that involves having a yummy. I say the word with a treat lure to follow until he’s in the right position, then click and treat.

Next was pressure on his shoulders while I stood, also followed by a click and treat. You can see from his body language he’s pretty unconcerned about the whole thing.

He’s not the least bit body sensitive, thankfully, so he doesn’t care about the brace. (Oops, also forgot his harness again, so it has to go in my purse from now on!)

Some dogs dislike the bracing, and will need considerably more reward for accepting it. Kenai needed lots of reassurance at first, then decided that was just how we roll.

Levi takes it all in stride, and his young age may be part of why he so easily accepts the pressure on his body.

I was so proud of him! I have to watch myself, in fact, not to get that showing him off tendency. Yes he’s doing great with his beginning task training, but he is young and has several more developmental stages to grow through. He can be killer good now and come apart later, so I gotta watch the excess prideful or feel like a ding dong later!

Right now though, Levi is wonderful in his obedience training. His home behavior is improving too. On advice I decided to try feeding him raw to see how that affected the crazy food drive. Day one was a remarkable change: instead of eating every 3 hours and being most nippy after meals, he easily goes 4-5 hours between raw meals with very little nip and chew.

That’s only day one though. Friday is day 2, and I’m watching for bone and joint pain since the only raw I have leftover from Kenai and BB is red meats. The beef and buffalo like all red meats are naturally higher in phosphorous, which is the primary culprit in growth problems like PANO, HOD, knuckling over, and splaying feet.

So Friday morning we are heading to All Pets to see if we can find some chicken or turkey to take home with us. I’ll order a case of Bravo venison for a different red meat, as well as chicken, turkey, salmon, and duck for him. That will stock the freezer well for such a small fella.

He needs at least some red meat, since red meats contain amino acids and nutrients that white meats don’t. Variety of protiens is important when feeding raw. I didn’t want to feed raw this time because of the expense, but if I can use it to reduce the frequency of feeding until the 2 cups a day of grain free Blue Buffalo is sufficient, then I’ll do it.

Socializing and Bite Inhibition…by Lisa Harmon

Mom would kill me if she knew I’d posted this but it’s such a sweet pic! Morning love time! Don’t anybody tell her?

Bringing a puppy into your home is stressful, and a new home is arguably more stressful for a puppy.

Levi’s transition from litter to my home has not been an easy one for either of us. Almost nothing is the same for him, no other dogs, no kids to romp about with, a different language and climate.

Strange how stress feeds on stress. Levi’s frustrated behaviors frustrate me, and vice versa.  So I first wanted to be sure my generalized anxiety disorder wasn’t contributing to, if not causing, his stress.

I know I can get frustrated, simply reacting to his mood. That’s how it goes when a person has GAD/PTSD. We’re like canaries in a mine, many of us, the first to be affected by the emotions around us.

So to see how much, or if, I was worsening things for him, Tuesday was “therapy time” for us both…The indicator? If he can pick up frustration from me, he can pick up peaceful too.

I have a theta brain wave CD and a special set of glasses that use light to bring the brain into a theta state. This combined with biofeedback is a powerful tool for inducing a deeply relaxed yet aware state.

I brought him on the bed to doze while I used the music and light to relax. He had a nap while I was doing my biofeedback. When we got up, it was time to feed him et all and boom–pacing, fussing after he ate, chewing things he has gotten a bit scolded for…especially me. The works.

So it isn’t me neccessarily worsening things for him. The therapy time did help me not to become frustrated, but it didn’t prevent his outbursts. Whew…I’m not feeding him negative emotion passively. Just when I do get frustrated and act like it. That’s fixable.

After hearing back from a trainer friend (Smart Dog University) who explained what she does to train bite inhibition, and reading the theory behind it as explained by Ian Dunbar, I have a workable solution to the blood drawing!  (http://www.clickertraining.com/node/725)

My friend confirmed a guess that it was indeed frustration intolerance at the root, and I needed to get a tether to begin moving away out of reach when he’s too frustrated and acting out. When he calms down, I can move back to interact and play with him.

The training reduces the intesity of nipping first, then the frequency. She also recommended I start with the book “Control Unleashed” asap.

So I’ve ordered a tether priority mail http://www.baddogsinc.com/pettethers.html, and have to order another copy of “Control Unleashed” since I haven’t found mine post-move. No more boxes are left to unpack so the book didn’t come with me I guess.

***

On a more fun subject: Levi has had a few firsts. Here he is being introduced to ice cubes!

He loves to mess with them. They slide around, they’re cold on the toes, feel good on teething gums, and are slippery!

…all the better to chase you my dear ice cube!

Tuesday Levi also went to All Pets Supply with Mom and I. He enjoyed meeting people and wandering all around, doing quite well with the leash Mom had. I was hunting chew toys and bones. But Levi was checkin out everything. He loved the attention from strangers, even climbing into laps for his baby love.

One very enthusiastic person he wasn’t sure about (dogs often shy away from overly excited people and dogs). So a hand full of treats for him to munch on while she petted him and checked out his giant feet did the trick. He’s got the hang of this socializing stuff!

There was one hyper dog, but we kept him away from her–she was very over the top. I petted her, but Levi gladly went elsewheres with Mom. The store cat he was cool with, even laying down and putting out a foot to invite her to play. Kitty wasn’t interested, and he was okay with that.

I loved watching his instincts with that cat: she’s eyeing him, he makes himself approachable, she comes closer, he invites her to play, she walks away, he sniffs then goes on.

The whole business was a calm affair, and I was busting my buttons at the little dear’s lovely good critter to critter manners!

Thank heavens he’s so food motivated–even when stressed or unsure, he will take a treat. That allows me to lure him forward, and reward him for investigating. He’s pretty curious and friendly to begin with, too. That’s working in our favor!

Noise Tolerance for an SDit

Hopefully I’ve got a 4-6 mo old pup that was very well socialized the first few weeks after coming to live with me.

I try to focus almost exclusively on just getting used to noises, movements, and smells when I’m out in public with a little one. I didn’t expect too much by way of down or finds when they were little in a new place.

Now that they’ve reached 4 months plus, I do expect a loose leash or some “find it” games, and other tasks we are now working on to debut in public. But this post isn’t about getting a pup to focus and play at their “work” in the usual places we go: this one is about building a general noise tolerance.

One way to prepare the pup is by passive noise practice: playing recorded sounds at varying volumes while they rest, eat, play, or practice with you. This often helps 1) make the sounds stay in the background when they encounter them in public, 2) give you clues as to which types of sounds may bother the puppy so you can work on it.

My own noise tolerance is limited because of my particular disabilites, so a good trainer to go with me or for me is essential sometimes. Concerts in the park, the fair grounds, Silver Dollar City with it’s blacksmiths and amusement rides are all pretty heavy duty outings for a young puppy.

The noise levels are higher and often, more sudden in such places. It’s also often combined with crowds, smells, and fascinating things to a puppy.

I also expect alot of people to want to pet them, so I’m prepared for taking off their vest occasionally for some human socializing too.

Since these noise socializing outings are harder than say, the Walgreens we often go to, I go back to not expecting a bunch of tasks in a more difficult setting. The loose leash is something I do want, and will probably have to start rewarding again.

Another thing I’ll need to reward is curiosity: I don’t mind at all showing a puppy what’s making that noise, petting them, telling them the name of it, then even standing there for them to watch. The trick is a click and treat when they disengage their attention from the noise and are ready to walk on with me.

That click and treat is a subtle conditioning, that the big reward and what makes me the most pleased is returning their attention to me and what I’m doing. It doesn’t make the what’s-that off limits, just not as rewarding as ignoring.

Once a puppy has been to louder and busier places a few times, and they know what sounds are there, I begin a more formal ignoring practice. I let them look but after about 3-4 seconds if they still haven’t disengaged, I throw in a hand lure or hand target with a click and reward.

The idea is to quietly train them to redirect themselves. There are some sounds or objects that will disturb a puppy, like skateboard perhaps, or a loud machine. For specific sound or object difficulties, I love the book “Control Unleashed” with it’s “look at that” games.

For general noise tolerance though, exposure combined with a relaxed handler and a few favorite treats are enough to make for a relaxed puppy. Here though is where knowing your dog is essential. They give off body signals when they’re becoming stressed, so reading those signals and a willingness to leave if a puppy needs to is important.

Yawning, a shake like they’re wet, big eyes, tense muscles, and a lowered tail position are all stress signals. Shivering, whining, and cowering are flat out distress.

Knowing your puppy’s normal behavoirs help you recognize where the threshold between stressed and distressed is, and you can bail before distressed hits. It’s not like you can never go back, right?

Being with a service dog in training, it’s not good to bail because a pup is a little stressed. They have to learn to cope with stress because their job will be stressful at times. But a frightened puppy or an overly stimulated puppy creates all variety of difficulty later with their public behavoir.

I always pair a difficult outing with a fun one, to help a pup burn off their stress and just be a pup. A romp in the park, a play date with a friend, or a good massage and roll in the grass time is a great way to finish the outing.

Canine Good Citizen Test

This is a little bit of a long post but I didn’t want to split the CGC criteria up. The test itself can’t be taken until 6 mo old, so my first step (and next post) is about the STAR puppy test from the AKC. But I’m really after the CGC at 6 months, and like any test, need to prepare.

So here is what I am aiming for as a goal starting about 4 mo old. There are 10 different things being tested for a Canine Good Citizen recognition, and there are some rules, such as no restrictive devices to physically prevent a dog from say, jumping.

http://www.akc.org/events/cgc/training_testing.cfm

Many evaluators also have training classes specifically for taking the test, and are glad to fill up their classes! The more well behaved dogs there are in the world, the better, right?

My trainer also does this, and believe me, we start at no later than 12 weeks old. But by 16 weeks I am getting serious about it.

If my pup can pass this test at 6 months, they can become involved in therapy work, which only widens their socializing possibilities, and allows people to enjoy the benefits of a dog without actually having to be responsible for them. There’s nothing like a soft, loving puppy to bring a smile and a feeling of well-being!

Therapy dogs work in assisted living, cancer treatment centers, children’s reading programs and a wide variety of situations. All different people in all different emotional and physcial states, and all requiring the puppy to be calm and loving. It’s a tall order, but I hope to have my next pup passed by 5 mo old or so.

My pup’s pack will have a place reserved for the CGC patch, as well as a mobility patch, guide dog, hearing dog, and PSD patch (psychiatric service dog). He may not get all of them, but I am gunning for the CGC, mobility, and PSD patch at least.

I have copied the test info from the page I put a link for, and it is in italics. Anything I add is not in italics.

After signing the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge, owners and their dogs are ready to take the CGC Test. Items on the Canine Good Citizen Test include:

Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger

This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator.

This means alot of socializing is needed for my next little SDit, meeting strangers without pack/harness/vest. When I begin training for this, I have a treat in my hand right in front of the puppy’s nose while people walk up to me.

I let them look a person, but they hold their position because of the treat their trying to get out of my fingers!

This sweet dog is just learning, and you can see the tail is little tucked, so he needs more practice to be comfortable with things.

I’ll do that 2-3 times with different people, and then the next person gets to meet them (test #2 below). But this teaches them that some people will give them attention, some will not and they don’t get to ask for it or just walk up to people.

Test 2: Sitting politely for petting

This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler’s side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.

I will probably ask the evaluator to allow my pup to stand since they are going to be a mobility dog, but since they don’t have a pack or harness on, it doesn’t really matter much. Practicing for this is pretty simple; lots of people pet them from 8 wks on.

If a pup doesn’t like their head petted, (had a couple of those!), I pull out the clicker and some super yummy treats and they get a click and treat anytime their head is touched. My pups get brushed and petted and groomed all over by all kinds of people. The more they adjust to lots of parts being handled the better. This also comes into play for the next test. 

Test 3: Appearance and grooming

This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner’s care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert).

The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout.

Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)

This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog’s position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler’s movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops.

The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.

Oh yes, the pace with me games are fantastic for teaching the attentiveness to a handler’s body and quick response for this part of the test.

Since this is a leash and collar test, no harness or gentle leader, the point is to see if the pup is moving with the person because they want to, no because they have to and can’t do anything else.  

Test 5: Walking through a crowd

This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.

The pace with me games and ignore it practice will make this much easier for a friendly people person pup. Anytime a puppy shows interest in something or someone I use a game derived from “Control Unleashed” that gives an immediate click and reward when they disengage their attention and look ahead again.

Doing that doesn’t make looking off limits to them, it just reinforces that looking ahead is what I want and gets them the treats they like. It relaxes a puppy, not restricting a natural behavoir (looking) so much as rewarding for ignoring. 

Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place

This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler’s commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog’s leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long.

The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler’s commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.

This is a relatively simple stay exercise until you start to think about everything around the pup that can distract them! Working on stay everywhere and young will help a pup remain relaxed without you for a short time.

Test 7: Coming when called

This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to “stay” or “wait” or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.

Oy, the come…this is really the very first obedience command we work on, me and my pup, and it’s both without the word (encouraging attentiveness, come games), and also with the word when the pup is already regularly offering the behavoir.

Some pups are so handler focused that this is fairly easy, but some pups will have to really work at not veering off to sniff the light pole or stopping to watch the bike go down the street. The more you work on attentiveness and come admist distraction the better!

Test 8: Reaction to another dog

This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.

This one may be tougher than first impression might lead you to think. This means a dog is so well socialized they aren’t feeling a need to see who that other dog is, and so attentive to their handler that they don’t break their position. This is some serious self control for a pup.

Test 9: Reaction to distraction

This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.

Distraction training, all the time, everywhere, with ever increasing difficulty…yeah. It’s a service dog’s life! This is one of the main reasons I want the pup to pass; I know just how good a pup is at ignoring stuff even if I’m a little anxious or not as relaxed as usual. Can they, will they, have the self confidence to handle it?

Test 10: Supervised separation

This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, “Would you like me to watch your dog?” and then take hold of the dog’s leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes.

The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g, “there, there, it’s alright”).

This I have to specifically train for, since I’ve spent so much time teaching the puppy to be watching me, moving with me, staying with me.

But there are times a service dog will have to be controlled by another person: people fall, people need emergency help and there’s quite a legal fight about SD’s in emergency rooms or ambulances.

So three minutes is going to be a hard limit to reach unless we practice it with neighbors, trainers, family, and strangers who are willing.

Socializing an SDit

The socializing continues, now that the pup is four months plus, and will for the rest of their lives.

But by this point you will know what your pup is and isn’t disturbed by: thunderstorms, skateboards, kids running up to them, barking dogs.

Some of their dislikes might be sound sensitivity, movement, or combinations of the two. You and I can be startled by a bike whizzing past, or distressed by a dog that came out of nowhere and misbehaved. So can our pups.

Personally I continue using the passive sound recordings while we train at home, only 1) the volume starts to go up, and 2) I particularly focus on things they do not handle with calmness.

Using a clicker and high value favorite rewards, I can help a pup desensitize and learn to ignore those sounds that bother them. There are some very good books on the subject of distractions and things that upset a pup: “Control Unleashed”, “Click to Calm”, are just two that I have relied upon.

If the problem involves movement as well, you may find yourself enlisting the assistance of friends, neighbors, and even total strangers. It’s amazing how many people are willing to help a puppy with their training!

I also begin a regular obedience class, not so much for the training which they are recieving at home and out in public with me, but mostly to practice focusing and working amid the distractions.

A baby agility class, or other competition class would work just as well for that. Perhaps even better, given how high excitement such classes tend to be, with excited dogs and handlers.

At this age I change vests and harnesses: from SD candidate to SDit (in training), and the tracking harness gets replaced by a rigid mobility harness. Recent changes to the law allow full public access to in training dogs, just like the “grown up” SD’s.

I’m still not sure if a handler/trainer identification is required but they run just $15 or so for a clip on, or you could even get a t-shirt or sweatshirt made pretty cheap.

So my 4 mo old is now not sitting outside on the patio of the restaurant, they are inside at a table or booth. Where I live doesn’t have public transportation, so I’ll be having to go into a bigger town not just to watch the buses, but to ride them. And a paid trainer will be taking the puppy without me to places I know can cause me anxiety.

The experiences are beginning to be combined with obedience and tasks; longer down stays, harness work practice (gentle–they’re still little), and my expectations of them are going up. I’ll be working very hard at 4 mo to get their Good Canine Citizen test passed, even this young to become involved in therapy dog work for more involved socializing.

For therapy work, the harness, pack, and vest comes off and I replace with only a bandanna because they are now starting to ignore people when they are in their harness.

But the therapy work socailizing experiences are of great value to having a calm and unflappable dog. It also is a great benefit to other people!

I will probably have my dog take the CGC test again around a year old, and maybe even once more at adulthood–dogs change over time, as they grow, develop, and the from the experiences they encounter.

Here again is a document list of ideas for socializing experiences that you can download and use, or alter and add if you wish: SOCIALIZING

Beginning Stay, Wait, and Leave It

These teach a puppy self control, which is going to be very important for  a future working dog. The stay and wait are duration behaviors, so it’s simple to understand that a pup will have to build from short stays to longer ones.

 This down stay at a class is vastly harder than you might think! That’s I want their sit, down, stay, and wait fairly solid before we go to an obedience class.

The class itself is loaded with heavy duty distractions for most puppies. Other dogs, other people, noises, smells, movement around them all are very distracting to a little pup! It’s asking alot of a puppy.

Always begin in a low distraction place, like home. Then try adding recorded sounds of other places at low volume, or open the window. Try that boring park where you hardly ever see anything interesting. The idea is to have the stay, wait, and leave it solid before you add a new distraction, gradually making the distractions harder to ignore.

Wait

This means when I click they can get up and come get their treat. It’s what I’ve been doing while teaching their sits and downs already. But now once they sit, I wait one second, say wait, give another second or two then click.

A great way to begin that keeps a pup focused is to click and treat after 1 second, have them sit again for 2 seconds before the click and treat, then 3 seconds before click and treat for as many seconds as the pup will sit, wait, then sit and wait again.

Doing this in rapid fire succession will certainly capture a pup’s attention and keep it, as well as build their willingness to wait longer and longer knowing the wait is only a little bit longer than the last time.

Then I will try just saying sit and waiting maybe 4 seconds before a click and reward. Then maybe 2 seconds, then maybe 6 seconds. I don’t always want to do a rapid fire exercise, using it only to re-attain their focus if they’ve gotten bored or distracted.

I want to build up to about 5 seconds solid without that rapid fire drill , before I start adding distractions like taking a step away from them, or having passive sounds on a recording playing. Squeaking a toy, making strange movements, having someone walk into the room…all are distractions they need to learn to ignore.

My late little BB in that pic was just learning, but he had the idea of watching me because the click was coming. And I had a goodie bag, with good goodies, and great goodies, and the bestest of all goodies and he didn’t know which one he’d get, either.

Get creative about it too: I would set a treat on their foot in a down and say wait, and they couldn’t have the treat until I clicked. Roll a ball around under your foot, let them see it but then lure their eyes back up to yours, the click and let them have their ball!

If they are breaking their wait while you move or have a distraction, return to the rapid fire drill, and if you can, walk around and such while you’re doing it. Remember wait means they can come to you once you’ve clicked!

When I’ve got a solid 10 second wait in low distraction places, even walking around them and not looking at them, we take the show on the road, and find quiet pet stores, or strip mall sidewalks. Somewhere that was still pretty quiet but has a few more distractions they wouldn’t get at home.

Don’t be surprised if the 10 seconds drops way down and you have to rebuild, or return to the rapid fire a time or two. That’s okay–you’ve made it harder. So don’t be stingy with the treats or the affection for what they are able to hold!

Since I start informal waits from day one, and formally practicing obedience around 12 weeks old, I have a full month before they have to face a highly distracting class setting.

Stay

Stay is not the same as wait. It means don’t move until I come to you. I teach both sit stays and down stays, but my SD canditate has long down stays much more often in their working life.

Once you’ve taught the sit, and the sit isn’t over until you click, you begin gradually lengthening the time they have to sit before the click comes just like wait.

When they can hold their sit or down for 3 seconds while I’m in front of them, I will wait 1 second after the sit command to say “stay” then 2 seconds later I’ll GO TO THEM before I click and treat. Next I will add some minor distraction, like stepping to the side or back a step or two, and try for the same 3 second stay.

If they are about to break their stay (their bodies begin to move), get yourself over there and click/treat before they get up. Look around and see was there something that broke their concentration or did they just have ants in their pants like a puppy often does. If they can’t hold 3 seconds, go down to asking for 2.

The point of clicker training is to reward success, not correct failure, so you want to gauge what you expect by what they can do right and well, and get rewarded for. Some puppies will easily hold a stay for 7 or 8 seconds, and some will have to work at 3 seconds. That’s okay, reward for what they are giving you.

It’s a little harder to do the rapid fire drill for a stay, since you have to come to them before they can get a click and move, but if you can try it’s a good way to passively prepare them for the stampede of kids at the park, or the reading program therapy work! The back and forth from front and sides is good.

Then I will lengthen the stay by one second at a time for a few days, and when they can do that, we add another, slightly more distracting distraction. You’ll be able to tell what your pup can manage pretty fast, and if they are masters of the stay, make the duration and distraction harder.

Walk around them in circles, go hug a person, slowly building the distance you can get from them without them getting up. Practice at the Walgreens parking lot where someone will eventually walk by with a shopping cart. Keep in mind the distractions an SD candidate will have to ignore as a working dog, and practice them!

Leave it

An SD in training will hear this alot once they have to start ignoring people that look or smile at them, or a dropped french fry at the burger joint.

It’s good to teach it now, so they know there are some things they don’t investigate.

I used to do this french fry thing to my Kenai and wish I had a pic of it. But Alas, the good GSD shall have to show you!

A turned on stove burner for instance, or that peice of meat that dropped off your pizza is a good place to start.

You can lure away their nose with a treat saying leave it, or you could call their name if you’ve practiced them looking at you when they hear their name. A hand target is a third option. Another way is to say leave it and just keep walking by something if they are on leash with you.

After going to so much trouble to stimulate their curiosity, we suddenly don’t want them to be curious about some things? Huh? Yeah, self control is what we’re really teaching. Not to mention scavanging off the floor is bad manners in a cafe.

Leave it can be used for anything you don’t want them to go check out, from people, to dogs, to trash, to houseplants, to kids with bad manners. It’s remarkably useful, and if you combine it with a hand target (don’t forget to cl and reward!), their attention is back on you where it needs to be for a service dog.

I can’t seem to stop mentioning a book called “Control Unleashed”, since it works wonders for distraction training. (Puppies are so easily distracted). There is now a puppy version as well, and I haven’t read it yet, but if it’s half as useful as the original version it’s worth getting.

Since I live in the country, I have to “import” some distractions, via recorded sounds, borrowed shopping carts, my trainer’s dogs and the like. I still take the pup to a good doggie day care, and ask for at least a simple sit or down a time or two before they are in an obedience class.

I’ll also be going to a puppy class, and maybe watching other doggie classes for a short time. Who knows, my next pup may have a go at a baby agility class for fun and distraction training. It pays to put the time and effort into a pup before they’re 16 weeks!

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