Giants and Bone Cancer

This post is to offer some information has concerning giant breeds and a particularly lethal type of cancer; osteosarcoma, or bone cancer. This was brought to my attention by a reader, and I’m very grateful for the heads up. There is a terrifying 80% fatality rate with this type of cancer.

xrayIt presents most typically as lameness in middle aged or elder giant breed dogs, though it can appear first in the jawbones or other places. Being a highly aggressive form of cancer, over 90% of dogs diagnosed already have had the cancer spread when it is discovered. Often, a biopsy is required to rule out other diseases and be certain that the changes seen on x-ray are indeed osteosarcoma.

The causes aren’t nailed down by science, but there are known risk factors, from genetics to diet. Osteosarcoma tends to run in families, so careful selection of the breeder’s bloodlines when you buy your puppy is very important.

Close relatives, such as a sire or dam, siblings, grandparents, aunts and uncles, that have developed cancer increases the risk of your pup developing it too. This has been linked to a specific gene: http://landofpuregold.com/cancer/the-pdfs/osteosarcoma-advances.pdf

There is research suggesting flouride in the drinking water is also a potential cause of osteosarcoma, in dogs and humans. Another risk factor is a popular insect growth regulator used orally for flea control in dogs and cats, diflubenzuron.  There is an increased incidence of both hemangiosarcoma and osteosarcoma in animal studies.

One of the biggest suspected factors in the later development of bone cancer is the speed of growth as an immature puppy, as most bone cancers originate near growth plates in long bones. This makes a diet of controlled calories, minerals, and protien (see feeding and growth page, or foods I recommend pages) even more vital than simply avoiding HOD or PANO in a puppy. The puppy’s diet has life long impact.

The growth rate risks also makes pediatric spaying and neutering of giant breeds an even worse idea than free feeding any old food. Many vets who should well know better, recommend desexing from 6-9 months old, some as young as 6-8 weeks old. Humane organizations as well push heavily for desexing, to reduce overpopulation. The problem isn’t the dogs, it’s the irresponsible owners.

A more detailed explaination of pros and cons of desexing: http://www2.dcn.org/orgs/ddtc/sfiles/LongTermHealthEffectsOfSpayNeuterInDogs.pdf

th (2)

I hope you will resist the pressure to spay and neuter before maturity, and be prepared to argue a bit with most breeders and rescues, who are understandably concerned that a buyer will turn around and breed their puppy without permission.

But the risks of early spaying and neutering are substantial, and not just for bone cancer. It has long been known that desexing before maturity, especially before 1 year old, drastically increases the growth of giant breeds. The growth plates of desexed giant breed puppies do not close and cease growing at the appropriate time.

Personally I think this dog above, the world record holder of the tallest dog, has other metabolic issues as well that haven’t become known. But it is definitely known that pediatric spaying and neutering lengthens the bones, because the growth plates do not close at the right time. This essentially creates a tall, skinny, thin boned dog that just grows and grows and never fills out as they should.

PirStud1a

Here is a picture of an intact dog, whose sex hormones allowed them to grow normally, a dog owned by an excellent breeder, JP Yousha. You can see the obvious differences, from a good muscle content, to a straight back, and well proportioned legs.

The additional growth time caused by desexing before maturity has shown to increase the risk of bone cancer dramatically, from 50% to 65% or more depending on the breed. It is particularly high in giant breeds (100+ pounds).

For more information:

http://caninecancer.com/Osteosarcoma.html

http://cebp.aacrjournals.org/content/11/11/1434.full

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Learning More All the Time

The tile is taking longer than expected, maybe going on until the end of the week.  But last Saturday night was the last one I have to spend sleeping in the kitchen, so the end is in sight. I’d love to put some photos up soon, though I have to wait for the photoshop software to come. I tried downloading it, but no dice, there wasn’t enough RAM in the new computer for a download that size.

Still, I can find pretty colorful pics to share here from the internet! This is a rug set I’ve bought for the various rooms. There’s the bedrooms and entryways and stuff that will need rugs. There’s a lovely echo effect with bare tile!

I wanted a 10×13 or bigger for the living room, but that’s hard to find with a latex backing. (I tend to trip on turned up and skidding carpets). I also want to get some fitted furniture covers, and insulated curtains next month. It may be August but fall and winter isn’t too far away.

I know…this is a blog for dogs, not home decorating! But that’s what I’m stuck doing, for the next couple weeks anyway.

Despite the current state of exhaustion, I figure it’s best to get done what I need to get done now, so I have the winter to rest. As said in an earlier post, I chose tile for it’s being waterproof and easy to clean–less work keeping the house clean for a new puppy.

The rugs I’m looking at, the furniture covers, even the paint type I chose (enamel) has the same purpose: easy to wipe off, or throw in the washer sort of products. The less time I spend scrubbing, the more time and energy I have for a new puppy next year. I found this great article about puppies in general, though it is geared towards assistance dogs. Being the science geek I am, this was my “cup of tea”. http://www.puppyprodigies.org/Early%20Learning%20Focus.htm

“The most influential time of a puppy’s life is between three and six weeks.  Fear is not present in newborn puppies.  It begins to develop slowly around five weeks of age, and increases gradually until it escalates in the fear imprint period during the eighth week.

Therefore, there is a window of opportunity between three and six weeks of age when anxiety levels in the puppy are the lowest they’ll ever be in their entire life.  Anything the puppy is exposed to between this timeframe will therefore be associated with low anxiety.”

Once again, this proves how terribly important it is to choose your breeder with the utmost care: that 3-6 week old socializing window is entirely up to the breeder to make the most of. The early exposures a puppy can have is limited only by creativity really, within the parameters of safety of course. For instance going to different dog parks for an unvaccinated puppy is terribly unsafe. But being wrapped in a blanket and carried into different stores or human environments during the course of those weeks (away from the litter) is an excellent idea.

If you are a breeder, please, please consider improving your early development skills for your litters. If you are looking for a puppy, consider choosing a breeder who uses these techniques. Puppies intended for pets or working dogs alike need the ability to cope with stress, to be unafraid of human generated noise, and accept frequent handling. http://www.puppyprodigies.org/Early%20Learning%20Program%20Highlights.htm

I’ve also been studying charts and graphs about Dane structure in much more detail than ever before. The Great Dane Club of America has an illustrated guide to the standard here: http://www.gdca.org/illustrated-standard.html

I still haven’t gotten the “show lingo” to penetrate my skull too well, though I’ve joined some Facebook owner handler groups to try and learn. They’re also a good resource for which judges like what if I choose to show the next puppy.

Since agility and dog sports aren’t an option for me to practice working with the puppy in loud and distracting environs, as well as accepting handling etc for the Canine Good Citizen test, that leaves showing as a possiblity. Or at least conformation classes.

Knowing the standard isn’t just about beauty though: this pic shows the structure a Dane should have. Variations like too long of a body, or a shoulder with the wrong angles has a direct effect on longevity, in terms of arthritis and joint issues. Even if you are only wanting a companion dog, rather than a working dog, the more you know about health and conformation, the more of the predictable orthopedic troubles you can avoid.

Danes don’t live long, and their prime working age period is short. Sadly, seven years is the average life span these days, so if a dog has good structure, and is well cared for, 10 years of healthy life isn’t too much to expect. That is, barring things like bloat or cancer, or those infernal ticks…

I’ve also updated the feeding and growth page to the right. The links were old and difficult to load now that the articles are archived. So I’ve put new ones up. And I’m still researching particular food brands, in the hopes of creating a list of foods that are good for giant breeds. Most recently, I’ve found the Innova large breed puppy is one of the very few “puppy” kibbles that has safe mineral and protien levels. The adult large breed is also spot on. http://www.innovapet.com/products/941

All the things I’ve written about lately have been ways to give a Dane puppy a leg up for becoming a working dog: early neural stimulation and socializing before 8 wks old for their temperment, being picky about their structure and conformation, putting the greatest time and effort into their training from 8-16 weeks old, too (as opposed to cleaning the house).

It may seem like I’m idle, with no dog to work with right now, but truth is, I’m gearing up. Educating myself, reading and studying, preparing the house to be as little effort as possible all have my end of the deal in mind: the right puppy choice, and the very best love, care, and training I am physically able to provide.

Learning the Dane Chill…by Lisa Harmon

 My early morning jolly ball time with the blue shark…Levi is 13 wks old now, and growing like, well, a Dane puppy!

A consult with a second trainer experienced with agression and anxiety issues had some added suggestions for Levi’s “issues”.

Truthfully I’m discouraged enough not to get my hopes up. But she believes he can be turned around (with rather endless practice for awhile).

Once again, we’re back to a kibble as treats, since he’s so persistant about things he shouldn’t do (he’d eat too much if he had much of a meal too). I HATE switching foods around as often as I have, but I gotta do what I gotta do. Much of what we’ve been doing continues, but with a few tweeks. And much more self-control exercises for Levi.

The kibble we’ve gone to is Wellness Super 5 Mix Large Breed. It has low minerals so he can have 4 cups or so a day, but enough fat etc to keep him satiated. I hope not to run out of those 4 cups before the end of the day, so I need to be aware of how much I’m using while we are working on his various exercises.

I’m a little torn about keeping Levi: I know there’s a good pup in there underneath all that misbehavior. I mean, it’s never taken me more than a few days to housebreak a Dane pup, and we’re 3 1/2 weeks in and he’s still whizzing on the floor. Then there’s the bite and shred and snarl…

I’ve never given up on a dog before, certainly not a puppy. Yet I’m expending tremendous time, energy, and money to assist the puppy I’d intended to assist me.

It’s possible he would do better with another person, with a more active lifestyle, one who doesn’t have chronic fatigue so they can keep on top of this training without negative effects on their health.

Someone who’s out and about, perhaps has other pups or dogs to take up his time when not interacting with a person might keep him more active and thus more tired. And the younger he is when going to another home, the better it would be.

But I’ve spent all my savings and then some already to aquire Levi, on trainers and classes, on vets and food.  Additionally I don’t know what the breeder would choose to do if I decide he’s more effort than I can physically manage. Since it was likely the shipping that traumatized him, to ship him back might greatly worsen his behavior.

Fortunately, Saturday was a fairly good day with Levi. It came at the cost of my legs, but he had 3, not 2, outside times and I kept him running until he laid down.

We did self-control exercises like stay and wait most all day long as prevention for the wildman stuff. I used “positive interrupters” to break off the frustrated bite at you’s.

(Positive interrupter:  a distracting action he can be rewarded for that also makes his biting at me and things physically impossible)

An example of a PI is hand target with his nose when he goes for the clothes while we walk, or an auto-sit to recieve a treat. We play attention games, name games, self control games… but then it occured to me that he’s excited to begin with. He gets even more excited about the prospect of food, so the training gets linked to higher and higher levels of excitement.

Levi doesn’t know how to relax, how to just chill. Most puppies nap a lot, but not Levi. When he can’t take any more of his own excitement or frustration, that’s when he explodes. Mom or I could just be sitting in a chair and he spits out his bone, suddenly snarls and lunges at us for no appearant reason.

He needs to learn how to “turn off” as much as he needs to learn self-control. He needs help “slowing down” so he CAN turn off.  So in addition to the stays/waits to gradually slow him down enough to settle himself…

I’m speaking to him now in soft tones, quiet voice, like you’d talk to a baby going to sleep. I’ve started rewarding him with food when he’s dozing, or say, when his head goes down to relax after something gets his attention…he’ll get probably 15 pieces of kibble in and 40 minute snooze while I watch TV.

Yep, it’s a continual effort, being aware of his stimulation level, how much it too much, how long he’s capable of holding a stay…Levi is a 24/7 dog.

The question is, will the chronic fatigue allow that? The fibro pain I can take OTC meds for, the Lyme inflammation I can take meds for. But there is no treatment other than rest and mild, measured exercise for CFS.

I dont’ get rest with Levi, and the physical exertion is way more than mild or measured. Can’t count on Mom, save perhaps to make things worse. Ugh, baby blue, will you promise to turn around and master the art of the Dane chill? Please, little love, I want so much to keep you and love you and have a happy life with you.

Good Advice and Bad Attitudes…by Lisa Harmon

Bigger boy getting a nap!

Levi’s vet check Monday went well: bladder infection’s gone, the ears are cleared up, and no worms. He’s 27.2 pounds now, and has had his first Heartguard dose!

He met several nice people in the lobby, and liked getting the attention. And my nephew came over to do his laundry again. No barks and fusses this time! A tad of submissive peeing, but not much. He couldn’t get enough petting, nor give enough kisses.

We worked on some off leash “come” in the back yard, and hooray he did great! Levi’s always been pretty good about it naturally, but I need to be more consistent about clicking and rewarding him for coming whether I call him or not. That would cement the habit alot better.

The xpen is working–he only had to be put in it for the growly/bite n bleed once Monday night. I did put him in it two other times, before he got really frustrated in hopes that 15 or 20 seconds would pre-empt an outburst from him. Most of the time now I only have to rattle the expen to remind him, and I can actually see him deciding if the grab and tear it up is worth it.

I’m glad something is going to help actually stop it, and since I still haven’t gotten the tether I ordered priority shipping last week, it’s going back. I was starting to feel “WTHeck”, am I defective or something, can’t stop this behavior?! I KNOW about raising puppies, having plenty of experience.

Which brings me to a very important point: trainers and people whose blanket response is to say the problem is always the person, and never the dog. The “any dog can be trained but you’re an idiot” kind of people.

We’ve all encountered them, so superior and dismissive. They do way more harm than good, because the owner feels to foolish to keep asking around for a solution that works for them.

I want to remind such trainers that even THEY own or encounter client dogs THEY can’t always improve. If they haven’t yet, they will.

I was lucky to have gotten good advice from Laurie Luck at Smart Dog University, and a few other people. But the majority of responses I got when I asked were kind of snotty and condescending. People skills are just as important to a dog trainer as doggie skills.

Now I’m no novice when it comes to puppies, so I know what’s normal and what isn’t, and I know how to deal with most all the usual “puppy stuff”, but way too many people responded to me like I’m an idiot or a bad owner.

So if you encounter these folks, before you give up and live with a problem, or worse yet give up on the dog…remember a dog’s behavior isn’t personal. They aren’t trying to distress you, nor is it always your fault.

You may have to make a few changes in how you interact with your dog, but that’s okay. We all need to learn and grow. If one technique doesn’t work for you after a reasonable period, try another. I’m always surprised with how negative and judgemental a “positive” trainer can be with humans.

Tell the rigid “my way only” and “I’m better than you” folks to take a hike. Odds are, they’ve not yet had a dog they couldn’t deal with yet, which believe me, can humble a person pretty fast. A trainer like Laurie is amazing, and sadly, outnumbered.

Levi the Explorer…by Lisa Harmon

Levi at Springfield Lake, 11 wks

Levi had a busy early Sunday morning: he went to the lake! With the temps in the 90′s F here, we are doing the outside-only stuff early in the morning. Evenings are still in the 80′s F.

So baby blue boy was out the door at 7:30 am. He had a long walk since I missed the access road, but we got to an area where he could walk into the water for a cool down.

He didn’t like the drop off that took the water from mid leg to chest high, but he stood still while I wetted him down the rest of the way.

Then we found this shady spot to sit and watch the fishing and families around. He was a bit shy of them, so he got a bunch of treats when someone walked past, and we did a tiny little sit/down clicker practice–I was hoping it would help him regain his curiosity.

I think he was getting tired by the time we reached the lake, since he’d happily met walkers on the nature trail. He even pulled the leash trying to catch up with them!

The trail has dips and inclines, which I filed away for future harness work practice (pull, brace). I’ll get his vest and little harness ordered next month, and start him wearing it at about 4 months old. (He’ll be 3 mo this coming Friday).

While he toddled along I watched his movement: the topline stayed straight, the back didn’t roll, his gait was smooth and easy…WOW I love his conformation. That good solid movement will protect his joints from excess wear during his working career and beyond.

You can see in the pic he woke up skinny Sunday morning–he’s growing, as Dane pups are famous for.

Since I’ve had to switch him to a junk and filler-filled food to safely provide him quantity of kibble, he’s been better about the rampant biting and chewing.

The Science Diet is a food I dislike because of the junk and filler, but the minerals are more than low enough to safely feed him 1/2 cup of kibble every 3-4 hours to keep him feeling full. It’s also corrected the early stage knuckling over and front foot turn-out he was starting to show.

I don’t like how his coat looks on the Science diet, so I’ve continued adding salmon oil. And I don’t know that he’s getting enough protien for good muscle condition. Still, he needs quantity for more manageable behavior right now, and it’s not like I can’t switch him back to a better quality food later.

I have noticed that Levi is “braver” in public when Mom’s with us, and yet, more nippy and frustrated when she’s with us at home. Not sure what to make of that, other than making sure Mom’s with us for the more difficult social outings.

I know I missed several opportunities for a click n treat to aid his socializing, and I’m hoping the “Control Unleashed Puppy” book comes soon so I can start getting back in the groove.

 I can’t seem to get my brain to multitask: watch his body language, watch where we go and what’s around us, interact with people, AND use the clicker. Yeesh.

It’s easier if someone else is there to interact with people so I can focus on Levi better. At least until the click becomes more habitual to me again.

Appearantly, I need to practice in less distracting places first too!

We’ve gotten the “down” down pretty good, though he still wants his lure. I’m just waiting him out: he auto sits when there’s food, so I wait until he guesses he’ll try a down, then he gets a click and treat.

And I’ve also ordered some recorded sounds and puppy relaxation tapes. The recorded sounds are designed to be very life like, and since we will use them at home, I can focus on the “hear that” with a click and treat. (Less distracting for us both!).

Levi learning step up, 11 wks

Another new thing Levi’s learning to to stop with only his front feet on a different elevation: either up on something or down on something. It’s practice for his harness, the step ups and downs.

He’s also (YAYA) sleeping through the night for the most part. He will not leave me alone though–demands to be on the bed with me.

I guess I let him for now, until he’s reliably housebroken and more secure, then he needs to sleep on the loveseat. As he gets bigger, he’ll take up too much room for more than a short nap. Overnight, I need the bed to rest comfortably or my health deteriorates.

***

THE NOT FUN STUFF: As for his frustration behavior, despite his good morning, Sunday afternoon was awful. He can go all night without needing out but whizzes everywhere when frustrated, even by his food or on his toys when he’s in one of his “moods”. uhg.

With the bite inhibition, I haven’t gotten the tether yet, and the usual methods aren’t helping all that much. So Sunday when he drew blood yet again after I blocked him from chewing the chair for the umpteenth time, I smeared the blood on his nose.

He hesitated, and eased off after that, but when he went for the arm again (he vocalizes too, like a frustrated puppy), he got a good taste of blood. Boy did he have a very surprised look on his face. He stopped immediately, and I wimpered rather than yelped which arouses him more.

Levi soon stopped the nipping and wandered a few seconds, then chewed his bone. I wonder what he was thinking? Some instinct echoing in his little brain? But the blood had more effect than all the training so far. When he nailed my ear during a nap, he again stopped as soon as he tasted the blood.

“Maybe he is going to get a clue about it now?”, I was hoping, but by Sunday afternoon, that hope was shot. I finally just set up the expen in the kitchen, and if he’s doing this for attention, he’ll learn fast it has the opposite effect.

This is kinda crazy, and makes me very sad. When he’s good, he’s a darling. But a time out is needed when a time out is needed.

We’re going back to the vet Monday, to see if he still has his bladder infection. I know he still has trouble with his ears’ yeast infection.

I’m gonna have them check for worms, and get him on heartguard, which prevents/treats hookworms and roundworms too, in addition to heartworms.

Oh little boy, will you be good so we can have lots of fun and enjoy each other’s company!!

Puppy Fever, Puppy Needs, My Little Levi

Here’s a post that’s a slight interruption of my service dog training plans…puppy fever is puppy fever, ya know? There’s so much to decide before getting a new puppy, things to plan for and prepare for, that often get lost in the tides of puppy fever. But a wise owner will have thought about alot of things before the fat furball is in their lap!

Things like which food would be best, choosing between rawhides or nylabones, what size and cost of bed to get, types of toys, will the pup be allowed on the bed but not the couches…With a dog breed that can top 200 pounds it is essential to be consistant about what is allowed and what isn’t. A Great Dane can grow like weeds!

I had myself an outing to Petsmart. Puppies need more than obedience training; bones, beds, toys, food…

I found 2 foods I like (Blue Buffalo’s Wilderness Small Breed, and Wilderness Salmon) which have safe mineral ratios for a giant breed dog.

He also got an orthopedic bed that isn’t in the picture there. There’s a nylabone puppy chew, and a couple of bully sticks, since all pups have to chew.

Better a bully than the dining room chairs!

There’s a package of puppy bath wipes too, since I expect the little love will have to piddle or even poo in his shipping crate before he gets to the airport for me to pick up. (He’s coming from Hungary). A kong to stuff with peanut butter and freeze is always a great way to keep the fidgets at bay! And what little boy would be happy without BALLS to chase?

So I got most all of the dog loot. Still need a tracking harness and a backpack but that has to wait until I can take him to fit it. He’ll want a jolly ball or two, and maybe a few other odds and ends. But mostly, all that’s left is heavy duty cleaning of the house and carpets.

With all the posts about his specialized training, you might think I’ve forgotten the basics, like potty training and hygiene. Nope, me no forgot that, even if I’ve forgotten how to spell hygeine, hygiene, whatever. A boy needs baths, brushing, and nail clipping. Toothie brushing too.

The petsmart daycare is great but they require neutering, so that’s out. I’ve had people tell me I must neuter right away because adolescence will ruin his behavior and make him unsuitable to SD train…never, ever, once, a single time had a boy go that rangey and crazy before neutering. Teenage boys can be a pain, but they can be handled. Show dogs are intact.

Maybe it will happen with this boy; it’s always possible, so I’ll leave the option open if his teenage stage is horrible. I really don’t want to alter his normal bone growth by neutering early. Even dogs that are de-sexed go through adolescence. It’s a fact of puppy raising. So I’ll have to disallow the leg hike and other male behaviors. Done that before.

I still have to check out a couple more doggie day cares. I know one allows un-neutered dogs up to 6 mo old, which is fine. The day care purpose for me is for socializing a puppy. The neighborhood dogs aren’t the best behaved, and we get strays too. I don’t want him frightened as a little tots, which can become a problem later in public.

One of these is my Levi, at 3 wks old. I believe Levi is what I’ll call him. And I messed with the pic a bit, just because I think he’s worthy of being art…grin.

I’ve ordered an embroidered collar and leash set. Also a digital recorder to take places and record every kind of sound I can think of.

That will be part of the passive noise tolerance: we tug and chew and rest and do stuff while the grocery sounds and screaming kids play in the background.

The noise part will be the hardest for me: loud radios, the volume Mom listens to the TV, the recorded noise all can cause migraines, balance issues, and anxiety for me. But I can’t avoid it all and risk making him noise phobic when we go out in public.

I’m back to researching vaccines again, and tick controls. Found a non-toxic yard spray to think about, and also have to decide between Advantix or natural treatments. Our trainer, (my trainer is more accurate), knows she’ll see us in 5 weeks or so for puppy kindergarden, and fun outings together.

I’m just about ready to meet my sweet…

Feeding and Growth in a Great Dane Puppy

I have a page about feeding and growth in Great Danes, but now that I have a puppy coming in a couple of months (yay!), I’ve been updating my knowledge.

Great Danes and other breeds over 30″ tall have an astounding rate of growth as puppies. This puts them at risk for skeletal and joint problems that can be potentially life threatening.

There’s a worse than untrue myth that high protien foods will cause growth disorders in giant breeds. Let’s just think for a minute: if your doctor says you have osteoporosis, does he recommend you eat more meat and eggs?

The biggest contributing factor to HOD, Panosteitis and other bone growth problems is not protein, it’s minerals. Calcium and phosphorous in particular. There are vet studies going back to the 1970′s to prove it. Puppies that are fed a diet high in minerals develop what vets call “malabsorption”, and have greatly increased risks.

http://intl-jn.nutrition.org/cgi/content/abstract/121/11_Suppl/S107 , or http://intl-jn.nutrition.org/cgi/content/abstract/121/11_Suppl/S99 are 2 very good studies.

Excess protien can affect a Dane by causing diarrhea, and packing on more weight than their growing bones can bear up under. Many high protein foods have dangerously high mineral content too. This can obviously cause joint problems both as a pup and later in life, so limit the protien levels to around 24%. Some dogs handle up to 28% just fine.

As for minerals a ratio of 1.1% calcium and 0.8% phosphorus is considered ideal and safe. The top range that I will buy for a giant breed is 1.3% calcium and 1% phosphorus; higher than that and the risks of growth disorders goes way up.

***

 Another big factor in your male Dane puppy’s growth is when you neuter. Neutering before 18 months usually causes giant breed dogs to become taller, sort of weedy looking and lacking a well developed musculature. Not always, but most of the time.

I made this pic deliberately small, so you can see what I mean by “weedy” growth. It’s hard to tell the male from the female.

Testosterone has a noticable effect on the growth of males. It not only contrains bone growth in terms of height, but also produces more stout bones and proportional muscle bulk. I have not heard or found in research that females spayed young have the same alteration in growth patterns.

Typically an immature Dane is a rather gangly pup, looking a bit bony. Sometimes the back end grows taller than the front end, the head seems overly large for the body and the like. That’s okay, keep the puppy on the lean side for their joint health. If you see only the last couple of ribs, you’re good!

Young pups 2-6 mo old can throw a growth spurt at you like it was an Olympic sport. Big spurts can add 1″ in height and 5-6 pounds in a week. They will go to bed looking fine and when they wake up, they look like you’re only feeding them once a month! A couple of days, they look more normal again.

By 6 months old, they will be 80 pounds or more, so the wise will begin the good puppy manners the day they come home. It may be cute for a fat little girl or boy to nip and pounce on you, but don’t allow it or you’ll have big 100 pound regrets later. It won’t be cute then.

***

I’ve been through most every food on the market with my last two boys, being so sick and so prone to growth problems like splaying feet and knuckling.

This time around, I’m going to try Blue Buffalo brand, since I like to limit the grains and filler junk that can go into cheaper diets. Many dog allergies are traced back to grains, rices, and starches.

Most people tell you to avoid puppy foods, and I usually do, but Blue Buffalo Longevity puppy has a safe ratio of minerals for a giant breed. There are some others.

Greater caution should be used though with grain free foods, though, as the mineral content can be frighteningly high.

Blue Buffalo Wilderness, and Taste of the Wild’s fish based kibble are high end of the safe range of minerals for the grain free dog foods. I’ll probably at least try the Wilderness when he’s older and see how he grows on it.

Again, never just take someone’s word for it–check the analysis on the back of the bag for the calcium and phosphorus.

I would like to feed raw if it wasn’t such a time and energy consuming task for disabled me, or so expensive for pre-packaged raw foods like Bravo. It’s wonderful as a diet, with many health benefits. One thing to remember though, is red meat can be higher in minerals, though there are some amino acids and nutrients in red meat not found in white meats.

I rotate red and white meat based meals every 6-8 weeks or so when feeding raw, and I try always to stick with game and oily fishes. I prefer elk, venison, or bison for red meat. My personal choice of white meats are duck, wild turkey, or in a pinch, free range chicken. Salmon, herring, and sardines are fish high in omega fatty acids for healthy skin and coats.

I don’t get into the “food wars” that break out in many Dane groups and pages–find what is safe for your dog, the best your budget can allow, and the type of diet that fits your lifestyle. As long as you do that, odds are your puppy will grow slow, steady, and well!

Feeding a Dane…by Lisa Harmon

not one of my pups, but reminded me too much of BB to pass up!

Building on the recent theme of puppies (reason: a friend has a new Dane pup)…This time the subject is their physical development. What you feed your Great Dane pup is terribly important.

The old myth is that too much protien is bad, the culprit of growth deformities like hip dysplasia, growing pains, PANO, and HOD. I gotta say

NO NO NO NO NO…

Seriously, there are nutritional studies on giant breeds like Great Danes going back to the 70′s dispelling the myth of protien is bad. The cause of bone problems is mineral malabsorption. Too much calcium and phosphorus causes bone growth deformities.

Even common sense tells you protien is responsible for muscle growth, minerals for bone growth, same as it is for humans. Who takes protien supplements to help with osteoporosis? Nobody. People take calcium to have strong bones, right? No different for dogs.

There’s a page over yonder with links to the studies and details if you want to learn more.The long story shortened is your Dane pup needs a limited mineral intake to lessen the growth problems giants are prone to.

That means you have to check the food bags, and keep the calcium at or below 1.2%, and phosphorus at or below 0.9%. Then the pup will grow more evenly and have fewer risks of bone and joint issues.

If you feed raw, I strongly suggest limiting the amount of bones your giant breed puppy gets with their meals, compared to a smaller breed. And keep in mind red meats tend to have higher phosphorus levels than white meats; a chicken meal can get away with more bone in it than a beef meal.

Some research suggests wild game has a lower potential for causing inflammatory responses such as in arthritis or tummy troubles. Wish I’d kept the link to post here, but maybe a google will turn it up again. The cost of raw for a giant is substantial, so having a hunter in the family/friend list can be a godsend!

And for males, neutering early can result in much faster growth in the long bones than waiting until 12-18 months old. Not sure why, but testosterone seems to be involved in how the skeleton develops.

If you can and will contend with potential marking or guarding in an intact adolescent male, I would suggest waiting to neuter. Particularly if your Dane boy seems to be growing a bit too fast naturally.

Dane pups grow in gigantic spurts, often as much as 1/2″ taller and 5 pounds in a single week. Their bodies sorta see saw, with the butt growing higher than the shoulders, then the shoulders growing higher than the butt…they are in general bony, lanky, clumsy, and silly-cute looking until around 8-12 mo old!

They wake up in a new body after every nap! Sometimes getting the backend and front end to go in the same direction can be a challenge (grin). I kinda know what it feels like (grin again).

Giant breeds are like toy breeds in that they are a specialty in the dog world, and have considerations that other average breeds won’t. But if ya ask me, there is nothing like a Dane to satisfy the dog lover in you. They are frighteningly smart, above average sensitive, and always pure in love with you.

***

Back at the construction site we call our new bathroom…scaredy pup has had a weekend to recover himself before the kitchen remodel begins. This time there’ll be a whole crew here. Maybe more scary but over faster?

The boys are still loose together again, with only some minor “uh-uh boys” when K gets the hump little bro urge or BB gets too carried away with playtime. I’ve been extra careful not to be irritable, since I’m feeling poorly this week (fibro pain, CFS/ME weakness, migraines).

Mom’s off the steriods now too, so the ‘roidy crank is toning down, to the boy’s relief. BB has made a permanent indentation next to MY chair to give ya some idea. He’d be in trouble if we’re both cranky…

They’ve had lots of sleep, but not much outside time to speak of with my parts not doing well. Maybe today. I’ve had no ambition at all this weekend, not to go get gas for the mower, not even to go to the grocery. Maybe today. Or maybe not…grin.

Snows on the Toes and Snows on the Nose…by Lisa Harmon

Kenai, aka Sir Snooze Alot, waking up from his nap, 5 days to his 2nd birthday

I’ve been thinking about puppies lately–it seems everyone I know has a new puppy or wants one. Hopefully you will pardon me for a bit of preachy here. I try to get people to consider what exactly they want in a dog and choose the pup based on that. Unfortunately, most puppies are picked according to cuteness or this time of year are a “present”.

Christmas present puppies are a bad idea. At least as most are not picked out according to what the person recieving them want or need in a dog. Present puppies are often a spur of the moment impulse buy, and unless you know exactly what you’re looking for you can get in big trouble!

A friend of mine got a puppy from their grandchild last year. A cute little black lab. They’re in their 80′s and wanted a toy breed for lap sitting. Now these elderly people have a wild 60 pounder who can’t walk on a leash, took 5 mo to mostly housebreak, doesn’t get anywhere near enough exercise, and knocks them into the wall on the way by.

She’s a smart dog, and would be easy enough for some people. But she was not well chosen for the couple she was given to. This is a very common scenario, sadly. If you want to give a puppy to someone , BE SMART about it–give them a leash and collar as a down payment for a puppy to be wisely chosen at a later time. Help them decide what sort of puppy they want and fits their lifestyle.

  1. Energy–do I want a pup to go running with me or to snooze by my feet? How much time can a reasonably expect to devote to exercise and training each day? Am I currently able to provide the additional time up front for housebreaking, leash training, and other puppy lessons?

  2. Costs–some breeds require special care, ie regular groomer visits, or breeds that have more health problems than others. Bigger dogs eat more kibble, giant breeds have problems on cheap dog foods, large dogs in the car will mean trips to the car wash for upholstery cleaning.

  3. Personalities–more timid pups are less likely to do well in loud busy homes, stubborn pups are not for the person shy of firmness about no means no, sensitive dogs aren’t a good fit for an authoritative sort of human. There’s not much sadder than a dog and human who love each other but have clashing personalities.

  4. Breed instincts–if you don’t want to deal with a tendency to protectiveness, don’t get a pup from a guarding breed. If you don’t want to deal with very strong chase instincts, avoid breeds with hunting in their past…choose the breed wisely, asking the breeder about what behaviors you can or cannot expect from the potential puppy as they grow up.

  5. Environment–if you don’t have a fenced yard, you might reconsider getting a dog whose breed has less then astounding recall or a tendency to wander. If you have allergies or dislike a “lived in” home, you probably don’t want a heavily shedding dog. If you live in an apartment, you’ll want to look for a quiet dog that doesn’t bark much.

I cringe when I hear someone got a puppy for Christmas, but it doesn’t always turn out sideways. That said, resist the tendency to think the pup is so cute and it won’t be such a big deal to change your lifestyle, schedule, or budget. A dog that turns your life upside down doesn’t usually work out well for either of you. They need to fit.

If you’ve already recieved a Christmas puppy, or already given one, then let this be a post to help you really consider if it was a good idea. Yes, a bit preachy, but it makes me so sad to see dogs and people have a hard time living with each other. Puppies are much easier to rehome than an older dog with established behavioral problems.

If you know a pup just isn’t for you, like the lab and my elderly friends, please don’t let your affection for the giver make you spend the next 10-15 years struggling with a dog. You have to be wise enough and loving enough to tell the giver that  despite the good intentions, you want to return the pup to the breeder so it can find a home more suitable.

If you worry that feelings will be hurt, you can make the approach gentle, right? You probably are grateful for the love that went out and got you a loving little furball, so tell them that! Then tell them what you’re looking for and ask them to help you find that “just right” pup. Or that you aren’t really ready for a new puppy right now if you aren’t ready.

***

Also I got a comment which pointed out that I haven’t really addressed a common problem for giant breed puppies like Great Danes: PANO, or panosteitis. It is a problem that results in rotating lameness and severe leg pain in fast growing puppies.

Pano is primarily a dietary issue. Like HOD, Dysplasia, knuckling, and other orthopedic growth issues, the underlying dietary problem is the over-absorption of macrominerals from food. The calcium absorption co-effecient is out of normal range.

In layman’s terms, the dog with Pano or other bone problems is absorbing a higher percentage of the calcium and phosorus in their food than they should. X-rays often reveal bones that are extremely dense and thus painful, but not deformed like in HOD. 

Once a pup has begun to over absorb minerals, they will have that higher co-effecient forever. Their mineral intake will have to restricted through the remainder of their lives.  

The first thing I really want to hammer home about Great Dane nutrition is PROTIEN HAS NO EFFECT ON BONES AND BONE GROWTH. Growth deformities are orthopedic conditions, and are not caused by protien intake. 

The myth of too much protien for Danes has been around as long as dirt but it simply isn’t true, and as has been proven over and over in veterinary studies. Yet many vets, breeders, and owners still believe the protien is bad myth. http://intl-jn.nutrition.org/cgi/content/abstract/121/11_Suppl/S107 and http://intl-jn.nutrition.org/cgi/content/abstract/121/11_Suppl/S99 are excellent studies to read and refer a vet too on the subject if you hesitate to let go of old beliefs.

Aside from studies, common sense goes against the myth: Protien builds muscle, not bone. Minerals build bone, and if you have bone problems, minerals will be the culprit. The reason many associated protien with orthopedic problems with high protien is that foods with large amounts of protien (like grain free kibbles) often have dangerously high mineral contents too.

I’ve had a dog that developed nutritional HOD from a food supposedly designed for Danes, ie low protien. The minerals were still high. It was horrible watching him deform and twist and suffer, so I don’t follow claims–I look at the nutritional analysis. A  1.1% calcium  content in food thought to be ideal, which might change as giant breed nutrition becomes better understood.

I don’t feed pups a food with more than 1.2% calcium because it is getting high enough to increase the risks. The phosphorus content is intricately related to how calcium is absorbed, so I get uncomfortable when the phophorus content is above 0.9%

Pano has a genetic component, in that the tendency to overabsorb minerals can run in families. But controlling how much macrominerals are available in their diet will stop the pain, lameness, and prevent the development of even more serious ortho problems later on.

***

Back in my personal petting zoo…

The boys had a happy Christmas, despite the dead camera battery. Duh. I’ve been managing to get them out to run every other day reliably, though they really do want every day. This cold has gotten into my chest now, and my blood oxygen is low enough to worsen the chronic fatigue. But the boys have enjoyed the snows on my nose!

I can’t tell if he’s trying to look like a platypus or a cutting horse! Heaven knows he has the face and the turn for either! Kenai has such vigor, it amazes me. He is easily the most atheletic of all my Dane loves, easily. His enthusiasm for outside never ends.

Love the stick, the ice on it not so much…COLD! Unless little bro is on the other side of the fence, the lure for his coursing, Kenai trots around with the occasional outburst of a zoomie. And pees. Just in case the roaming cats and critters didn’t know this was his kennel.

He’s such a good boy, my Kenai. He’s mellowed a bit about the critter encounters, I think from the super cold temps. He’s in such a hurry to get inside he doesn’t care about the turkeys! Still gives me problems with intense excitement when he sees moving animals outside, but that’s going to be a long term fix I fear.

I’m hoping to take the rest of the winter to really rest, so I can regain some strength and endurance. Once the reserve energy tanks have something in them, I’d like to return to weekly public training. Maybe by then we’ll have their digestive problems sorted enough to be able to use training treats? Too much to ask for maybe, but here’s hoping. 

Hope your Christmas was a merry one, and the New Year brings you joy and blessing!

Back In The Saddle…by Lisa Harmon

kenai-run-with-me-kangaroo-puppy-54-wks

Kenai the Kangaroo during his run with me fun with BB, 13 mo old

Kenai had a half working outing Saturday, though not quite what I’d had in mind. Mom didn’t go, which meant the errand list got shortened. The puppy store was out of his food–not good–so we had to buy a small amount of another kind. After just 2 days I can tell it isn’t the best for him or Beebs; dull coat, not satisfied after eating, loosing maybe a touch of weight. Their regular kibble is supposed to be in Tuesday, so we’ll get it before their vet visit.

The working part of his Saturday was at the smoke shop, and it’s a minefield of potential puppy mistakes. The test began outside while I put his harness on under the banners flapping in the wind. Kenai is a bit skittish of noises from above him, and usually will side-step watching them. This time he watched without the tango, picking up his foot for me, and noticing but not reacting to all the foot traffic around us. A-, little big man, not bad at all!

The aisles inside are tight, the place is always busy, and the owner is a former Dane owner so Brown has himself some petting from Al. Then Brown has to switch back into ignore people mode, and that’s the big test. B- was his grade. Good enough, but not “perfect”, needing two small corrections about sticking his nose out for more petting when I called him back to work.

Kenai was very good about the close quarters, though, not giving me any trouble about hesitating at narrow places. No bumps, pauses, or funky ears earned him an A- there too. So averaging out roughly, my young student got a B+ for the day. I’m leaning towards curving that up to an A-, since I was satisfied with his test. Yep, I’ll gonna give him an A-! A small oops shouldn’t count too much, right?

With the darned old wind-that-won’t-go-away blowing, I decided not to stop somewhere for Kenai’s nose to entertain itself. This has been the windiest winter I can recall since the early 90′s, and it’s playing heck with my balance. Tired of it! So his reward was some time to run in the kennel at home. It’s protected from the wind, for the most part.

Sunday he was all full of play, and since I didn’t indulge him during the AM when I got involved in some writing projects, we had some Brother’s Grin exercise after lunch. The boys haven’t had a run-with-me-fun time for over a week, so K went in the kennel, BB got turned loose outside and they had themselves some brotherly fun running back and forth.

Kenai leaped and loped and galloped, teasing his brother with the jolly ball, until BB found a stick and teased him with it. Back and forth it went, and BB was so excited he forgot to go to the relief patch first. I took him over after a few minutes, and he was still too happy to bother with the mundane.

Mom wasn’t feeling well Sunday, so she was irritable with BB’s sometimes pesty personality. The crabbiness was relatively mild, but it never fails to make Beebs more of a pest. He gets more excitable when you’re not happy with him. So I was the self-appointed source of peaceful all day. Made sure to rub ears and talk to him as I moved around doing stuff.

I gave him some exercise with his brother, so mostly I tried to entertain the boy brains. We watched a TV show about the rainforest, and I named the sounds and sights for them. They know what monkeys sound like, what black leopards look like, that some birds are noisy birdies, and snakes bite mice. That was all so interesting they had to take a nap afterwards.

I haven’t decided yet what today will hold, but I do know I need to get Kenai some sanctioned nose time today. It’s been a few days since we’ve put on the tracking harness to roam. Besides, he’s full of squirrelly today, and needs the stimulation. Wind or no wind, we need a sniffie stop. That may be it for the adventures today, but he’ll be out and about. We’ve just gotten back in the saddle, training and working again regularly. Need to keep it up.

Tommorrow (Tues) we have 2 known required stops: one at the pet store for their normal kibble, the other to the vet. We need to get the boys’ B-12 and folate levels tested, since I’m wondering if BB in particular has a small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO). It’s common for dogs needing pancreatic enzymes, and BB just isn’t “right”.

Ever have that feeling? You can’t pinpoint one thing, but you just know that something’s off? BB won’t gain weight after his last e-vet incident. He dropped an inordinant amount of weight for a 3 day calorie reduction, and won’t put it back on, some 9 days later. His body odor is still 120 proof, and his coat isn’t soft and shiny either.

Seemingly small things, but put together make me uncomfortable. A couple blood tests are all that’s involved, so it’d be worth knowing for sure. And while we’re there, Doc needs to get his hands on Beeb’s bad leg for an ortho exam.

I think his tibia is twisting again. There’s a bigger knot at the knee than used to be there, he’s using the leg less, shows more pain, and has shifted his weight way back up to the front legs again. The vets at U of Mo told us he’d probably need at least one more surgery before he was grown, and we’ve been overly blessed with that boy’s very slow growth.

Until the past 2 months or so there hasn’t been alot of added height. Now there is, even with skinny-boy-bb-54-wkshis mineral intake severely restricted. Yeesh. He’s got his mom’s tall and svelte frame. But this is too thin and it happened in one weekend.

He’s an inch taller than Kenai, and about 20 pounds lighter. The little bro is downright weedy looking being so thin. Couldn’t keep him short forever, I guess, but we certainly tried for his sake. If Doc Robertson here feels some changes in his bones, we’ll have to make a trek to the university.

At least if we do have to head to the university, they have a veterinary nutritionist there with experience in epi related problems. BB could see him too while we’re there and get some direct expert advice on how to get some muscle mass back on his bones.

The boys, the boys, they can give ya grey hair. But they also make ya smile, give ya love, and 24-7 entertainment. Heavens, I so wish I could bounce back from last year’s rotten strain, and be as relatively strong/energetic as I was when we brought the boys home at 9 weeks. Lord get me healthier…

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