That Park Was FUN…by Lisa Harmon

 Levi had a big time at Finley River Park here in our hometown. We started the morning with a run to the Shell station, but the highlight of his day was the park.

It was our 1 hour session with our trainer. There are two areas he can walk right down into the water, and he was splashing around in it with gusto.

He didn’t get to meet too many people, but he did get to watch geese, discover a water spigot, walk through a tunnel (an echo!), play a get ya so it don’t spook ya game when he wasn’t expecting it, and generally horse about. He didn’t know he was training, but we did.

Mom as expected has a myriad of excuses why she can’t work with him at any given time, and Tuesday was no exeption. So much for wanting to be involved–that idea lasted about a week after paws on the ground. I’d taken all the big talk with no small disbelief, but it irritates me some.

Levi also got to see some people get in a canoe! He wanted in until she reached to pet him, then he cried and ran back to me, stinker. Then he did it again. No conflict there, my silly boy. He’s become a tad shy despite his curiosity, not uncommon for his age (fear imprinting development stage), though he’ll probably get over that.

We slept for 3 hours when we got home, and he was a perfect angel. Then he woke up!

I hope he also gets over the food crazy, since he spent most of my cooking and eating supper time getting put in the xpen. It’s a worry for the future if he doesn’t, because going anywhere there’s food would be impossible. I hope he finishes getting housebroken, or going anywhere as a SDit will be impossible. If he continues to bite and be destructive when denied anything he wants, that makes even living with him impossible.

He’s still young, though. I’ll give another 3 weeks of bite inhibition, 3 hour feeding schedules, and vigilant potty training, then decide at 4 months old if the rectifying the behaviors are just too labor intensive to continue with him. That will have been 6 weeks of 12-15 hour days of working with him.

I know, it sounds awful, the idea of not keeping the little amigo. The assistance dog training is very difficult, very expensive, and takes roughly two years. But he has to make for a good companion before he can become anything else no matter how much potential he has. I have to be realistic about what I can manage since becoming disabled.

I knew at the outset I didn’t have the energy to put a lot of effort into basic behavioral rehab in addition to SD training, which is why I don’t rescue anymore.

I’ve honestly never had so much trouble with a puppy, and I hope that changes in the next month. If it doesn’t it won’t be for want of effort.

He is a cute little bugger, isn’t he?

Learning about the water spigot, he would get a few licks of water then look down and soak his own head. Lisa and I got a howl from that!

Levi’s sit is still excellent, and he’s very good about coming when his name is called. His down is still needing a lure to get compliance alot, the stay and wait is still in baby stage. But he’s also learning up (down to sit), stand, and the beginnings of brace front.

His hand targeting isn’t yet transfering to objects, so I’ll continue working on it too. I’m only giving him 1/2 cup of food in the bowl every 3-4 hours, because I’m using the kibble for treats after a click and we are training ALOT. He’s getting at least 4-5 cups of food a day total.

I’m going to try and convince Mom to at least take some pics and even see if I can get some videos up of our training. That’d be kinda fun! Cross my fingers though, since it requires her to be bothered with something. Still, he learns pretty darn well.

Later this week we’ll be in triple digits already, so our outdoor excursions will have to be early morning and late evening. That means a lot of running about in the house between 9am and 7pm, when the temps will be over 85F.

The Littlest Grey Reef Shark…by Lisa Harmon

 Here is young master Levi, already horsing about in America! He’ll be 10 wks old Friday.

His first night was a bit rough, poor dear. He was ravenous, fast as a gold medal sprinter with the (achem) “water hose”, and generally just very restless.

By evening, I confined him with me in the kitchen with the expen, and that began to setttle the carpet wetting, and bouncing off the walls. Like a kid in need of a nap…Just don’t take your eyes off him.

Though still fighting the fast whizzing on day two, his three main traits are easy: quick to boredom, falling down, and chewing.

He’s really a pretty playful fellow, loves his cuddles, but man he’s not shy with the nip and persist! All the houseplants are up out of reach, as is anything not impentetrable to my littlest grey reef shark’s teeth. He’s going to be a willful teenager, I can tell already…

To be fair, he was nearly 3 days in shipping, he misses his littermates, and he’s got some tummy troubles. With all the required worming, vaccines, and now the food change, it’s no wonder at all if having a touch of die in the rears makes a guy just a bit nippy.

We did begin a tiny bit of hand targeting/name training with the clicker: he’s already beginning to associate my hand with food and will follow it when I offer the palm with or without food. This boy’s as fast at learning as he is peeing!

My next step is to get our trainer out to start on the leash walking, going down the deck stairs (he does 2 but not 4 steps), and begin socializing.

Thursday he has his first vet check over, so I can get a weight on him, and see if she has suggestions about the hunger issues. That may be the reason for the restless and nippy stuff.

Since it’s not advisable to take my eyes off him (whizzy pup), I imagine many of my posts in the near term are gonna be short. Oh, but the puppy breath is marvelous!

Pace with Me Games for SDit

An SDit (service dog in training) has one absolute requirement: attentiveness. I need him aware and ready to respond to my body’s movement, my body’s changes, my emotional state. So I continue the ”pacing games” where they had to stop, start, turn, change speed and such without losing that at my hip position when they were younger.

Being, well, me, I’m a little fussy about where the pup needs to have their body in relation to mine. Dottie the Dane there is a good girl and learning to brace but for my personal needs, she’s way too far away.

That’s why I love the pacing games: glued to my hip is a constantly reinforced position, directly and passively rewarded. The brace or counterbalance or anything else is learned while already in the right place.

By now I hope the pup has gotten good at the basics, and has started to really enjoy our little dance moves! To me, walking with an SD is indeed more of a dance than anything else. We’re having fun being 2 bodies but one team.

Only now I’m adding in some new “tricks” as they learn them: a step up or down alert (in case I missed it), or sustaining a slight pull in harness up a long incline. They’ll learn a counterbalance with their harness in the midst of those direction and pace changes, and to smoothly guide around a box in our way.

Many of these new tricks of the game are actually serious, but I won’t tell them that! If I turn left hard, it’s highly probable I’ll wind up really needing a counterbalance. If I stop suddenly, I’m likely to need a bit of a brace. My balance has it’s problems…

These “tricks” break down into braces, counterbalances, pull/slow harness work, guiding alerts, and hearing alerts. Those categories will have their own pages, but as they learn them, they get thrown into the pacing games as real life-like situations they will face frequently, though at a slower pace later on.

The idea is to make knowing those tasks so second nature they are called ”defaults”; they don’t have to be a command. I often don’t even bother to teach the pup the name of the action, because my body movement itself is the cue.

This big girl here is one the dogs from http://www.servicedogproject.org/

Of course I don’t use weight in a brace, or let them pull very hard since I’m talking about immature dogs–18 mo is when their bones’ growth plates close and it is safe to bear weight.

Right now though, the puppy is getting used to the idea of “mom pitches forward, I move, pressure on my shoulders”. I want the positions and the acceptance of pressure and pulling in a youngster.

I start young with the guiding and harness work, because young puppies accept new and unnatural things easier than older dogs. It also gives us a year to have the actions down before it’s the real thing. Giving myself that time to work the kinks out and make the “work” fun increases my chance for success: the odds are stacked against owner-trainers who want as much from an SD as I do.

So we play our games and my pup plays the games with my family, my neighbors, our trainer…it’s all fun and games, but I know it’s for real life with me later on, and I’m not telling my puppy love that! I’m always amazed at what a pup can learn to do if they enjoy my attention and doing things with me. Dogs are the greatest!

Picking up Games

Puppies mouth just about anything, Great Dane puppies included. This pic came from www.dogtraininggeek.com

Danes in general though are not great retrievers. So rewarding any mouthing of objects is going to be a huge priority for me. Retrieval and noise sensitivity are my two main worries about a Dane SD candidate.

I’ll have picked a puppy at 8 weeks that shows the signs of picking up and carrying, but that needs to be heavily encouraged. Toys, ropes, fleecy squeakers are typical for pups to pick up, but a service dog will be picking up metal keys, paper, wood, plastic…just a scan of the kitchen table reveals a large variety of materials.

MOUTHING:

So the idea is to get them first to mouth strange tasting and smelling items. Metal keys could use a smear of peanut butter to make them more appealing to try. An empty plastic medicine bottles with a smear of canned salmon oil might find itself licked half to death.

The mouthing is then rewarded further as soon as they’ve gotten the last itty bit off with some  peanut butter on my fingers, and more gets put on the keys. I want them to associate those unnatural surfaces and textures with something good to put in their mouth.

This is a great time to teach them the names of the things they are readily mouthing, to make it a game to ID it and mouth it. I set out 2-3 items they will now know the names of. things I will want them to retrieve for me someday

But once they know them, I’ll ask them to id them without the goodies to lick off. If they go to the one I ask for, then I will put the salmon oil or cream cheese on it for them. If I have to lure them a time or two to the item again, that’s okay to. They’ll learn!

PICKING UP:

The pup picks up a toy and the rewards come out! Heavy and fast reinforcement of picking up will set in their mind that this is THE thing to do, nothin better.If I start with them picking up items a couple feet away, I might, might get a bring when they come for their treats. If not and they drop it to come get the treat, carry/bring is a step of it’s own.

Some puppies will generalize mouthing those peanut butter keys to picking them up, and some will not. I wouldn’t be half surprised if I need to gently put the keys or the plastic bottle or small can in their mouth for a moment, then do some heavy duty click/rapid reinforcing with treats and playing with the objects.

Some items will likely be easier: never had a Dane that didn’t love running around with sticks outside, so a mop handle might well be an an “indoor stick” they get to mess with. I’ve always played a game called “blankie monster” with fleece throws, and even my refuse-to-bring dogs would pick them up to play.

CARRY:

Puppies carry their “trophies”, they play keep away, they hop around with a snitched toy

they love. That can be shaped into going from picking up to carrying something else if they have to work for that little mushroom can they’ve been allowed to play with before, so it then must be a toy of some kind, right?

The trick to rewarding a carry is to click before they drop it, or the reward is for dropping. I’ll have accidentally taught them not to carry. I can click and offer a bigger reward so they drop it on their own, or I can have them give it to me as I click, then treat them.

Planning Ahead for SD Tasks

I strongly suggest knowing before you get your puppy home what you need from them, want from them, and could manage without their help. These are some dogs from the Service Dog Project.org (link to right)

Since I know I will need a pup to pick up and carry things for me, they have to first have associated the name with the item.

I take an inventory of every room in my house, my garage, and my shed. Everything! If it’s on the floor, on a table, on the wall, you name it. From curtains which will be changed eventually, to the hamper they may someday pull to the laundry room for me.

Don’t forget clocks if you will need to take medicine at a certain time. And have a plan for teaching the pup to read a clock–yes, they can recognize numbers. Or they can count dings if you teach them. They can also recognize a medicine bottle with a say, red dot sticker if you teach them colors, that is taken at 8.

They can learn to read words too, once they know what an item is, by simply adding another association to that item. Exit signs, bathroom signs, even with lots of practice, reading a checklist to be sure the stove, oven, and lights get turned off when you’re done cooking.

Little 8-16 week olds can’t remember huge lists (the human short term memory capacity is 7 items), but teaching two or maybe three things a day is possible. To teach it, they need to notice it, mess with it, and have a name put to it. This way they get the visual shape, the color, the smell, the texture, and a sound. Multi-sensory input helps with the memory.

Go back to those 2-3 items several times that first day to make the associations go from short term memory to long term, and keep going back from then on so it stays in the memory banks. I like to play a “find it” game, with a clicker and a variety of rewards a couple times a day.

A find it game accomplishes more than just remembering what something is: it builds their ability to mentally map your home. That will later translate into mapping where things usually are at the dollar store. Not to mention they will think it’s a game to ‘find’ what’s on your list, and enjoy the “work” they don’t know is work.

Picking up is sorta a hang up with some Great Danes. They aren’t the best breed for retrieving, generally speaking. That’s why I would deliberately choose a pup from a litter that likes to mouth and carry. Even play keep away is okay at 8 wks.

The easiest technique for “training” puppies is called “capturing’–there’s a whole lot of info about it on the page called “Helpful Techniques”. Essentially it is seeing and rewarding what a pup does naturally to encourage more of that behavior.

So anything my future Dane SD candidate mouths gets a click n praise. Anything they pick up and carry gets a click and a bunch of treats. Anything they pick up and bring to really happy me hits the Bil-Jack jackpot. I’ll let them stick their little nose right into the goodie bag like a horse eating its oats!

Teaching them colors is as easy as construction paper with items that are the same colors. Numbers are not so hard as you might think either, just some index cards with big bold numbers on them to put the word and the shape together in their minds. Say “2″ and point to it so they look at it, get them to touch it while you say 2 again, and have a happy click with big rewards.

Once they know their numbers, they can take you to aisle 5 in the grocery by themselves! You can count unnumbered aisles out loud, so they can learn to count too. If they know the number 3, you can simply put one bone, two bone, three bone down in front of them. Then let them pull bones out of the box while you count.

If you click fast and make a big happy noise when they hit three, the click indicates to them the counting is over, and they did it. With practice, a puppy will count three items when you say the word or show them the flash card.

I’m not as worried about fancy obedience as I am stimulating their brainpower by teaching them items, colors, numbers, and such. You can teach and older dog to sit, but this 16 week window when their intelligence is growing by leaps and bounds goes by very fast.

Sparking New Puppy Intelligence

Intelligence and curiosity seem to go together, really. Stimulating a puppy’s curiosity helps them develop their memory, problem solving skills, and the capacity to learn. Just by checkin’ things out, and messing with them.

Puppies learn best during play, or what they think is play. Like in the last post that discussed “labeling”, attaching a word to an object or sound tends to stick better when they are mouthing it, swatting it, or carrying it around. Or watching you do what you do with it. Especially if there’s a “your turn” at the end of you doing what you do with that!

Stimulating a new puppy’s intelligence isn’t hard; it’s about time, exposure to different environments, a variety of activities, and attention.

Not to be too scholarly here, but dog intelligence is generally split into three “types” of smarts: adaptive intelligence, instinctive intelligence, and working/obedience intelligence. I’m working on a page about Doggie IQ, based on a book by Stanley Coren called “The Intelligence of Dogs“, but it may not be up by the time I post this.

Since I’m focused for now on a brand new little tots, I’m going to start with “adaptive” intelligence, which I personally believe lays the foundation for a working intelligence to develop. Here are Dr. Coren’s categories of adaptive intelligence:

  • learning ability-how fast a dog learns something new
  • observational learning—how well a dog learns by watching
  • environmental learning—awareness of their environment, what’s normal and what isn’t
  • social learning—how quickly a dog learns how to behave with other dogs and people
  • language comprehension—ability to learn and distinguish human words
  • short term memory—how long a new association remains in the dog’s memory
  • long term memory—the ability to recall something learned awhile ago
  • problem solving—understanding a situation, and ability to transfer past learned solutions to a new situation
  • task learning–ability to learn specific tasks for assistance, police or other jobs.

 If your new pup is paying attention, it won’t take long before they associate the sound of your keys with going for a ride. If a curious pup watches you “hide” a treat under a box, they will likely start investigating that box, quickly discovering if they turn it over they can get the treat. Hide a treat then under a pillow, and they will do the same thing because it worked last time!

Puppies learn also by “social mimicry”, ie monkey see-monkey do. So they copy the other creatures around them, whether on 2 legs or 4. The more they pay attention and watch, the more they learn. Like I said how many times: “attentiveness is my #1 priority” followed by encouraging curiosity?

The more you interact with your new puppy, and make them a part of what you’re doing, the smarter they will get. That sheer brain power transfers into task learning, into figuring out how to go about things and problem solving. And it’s not really “training”, so much as playing with them and taking them places (socializing is another post).

Thinking about my day, there are countless opportunities for building on attentiveness, curiosity, and natural intelligence. I get up in the morning and let them out to relieve themselves–rewarding for “going” outside, have a short little play time with them, maybe “find” their ball, and go inside.

Then tell them “I’m taking my medicine” while they watch, and they learn the phrase means messing with the bottles and swallowing something. “Are you hungry?” gets associated with food comes next.

But they have to “wait” for it, maybe I want them to down on a mat while I get it ready and they build their self control waiting.  That’s a learned behavior I need to teach them, or they learn from say, another dog in the house. I put the food down, then say “okay” as a release word.

In just 15 minutes or so there’s been where to pee, remember what a ball is, find it, play with me, recall where the door is, learning what I do with medicine, associating a verbal phrase with breakfast, a “wait” practice, a “targeting” practice with the mat, learning the steps involved in getting food ready from watching, and a release word. Wow!

Building a short term memory is as simple as introducing say 2-3 new toys or new people, and getting them to go to the right one. Teach them the name by repeatedly offering the toy with its name, then offering another with its name. Then encourage them to find a particular toy by its name. Reward is an integral part of the game too!

That verbal recognition is often called “labeling” by the way, and they do it with things like doors, beds, and other items in their environment. The more you offer new things or places or people etc with names, the more they label, and this builds the short term memory. Short term memory turns into long term memory through repetition.

Problem solving comes naturally to curious puppies. They want that lovely stinky new bully stick, so they will go to some trouble to figure out how to get it! Hiding it 3/4 of the way under the kitchen mat means they will see it, and figure out how to either pull it out or move the mat to get to it.

In the process, they’ve not only stimulated their problem solving abilities, they’ve mouthed or used their feet to move that mat which can later turn into picking it up to help me mop or run the sweeper so I don’t have to bend over for it. (Having balance problems means a bend over can turn into a headstand!)

Once they can move the mat for their bully, “hide” the bully under say, their bed. They will remember being able to move something, and soon be moving the bed too just like the kitchen mat. That knowledge transfers to a new situation!

All the topics I’ve discussed the last few posts all go together to build a new puppy’s intelligence, and later their trainability. The next few posts will be about socializing, and beginning to teach the basic obedience commands.

Tenacity In a New Puppy

That pup has a lovely willingness to mouth, pick up, and carry items…

A puppy that gives up easily struggles to learn the complicated and behavior chains that service dogs are so remarkable for. Tencacity is part of a work drive, the will to accomplish for a person they love, and for themselves. Yes, I believe dogs can feel pride in accomplishments.

But learning tasks is not always an easy endeavor. An attentive puppy that wants to do things with you will need some encouragement to keep trying on occasion, to keep putting the smaller steps together that make a task like finding, bringing, and spreading a blanket over you.

Clicker training is a wonderful method of training because it encourages a puppy for every little thing they do right. Take for example what I call the “sit n spin”: it is a technique for an adult Dane to turn around with me in a tight space. Since they are so tall, I don’t lose the harness handle when they sit, and their long bodies don’t bump into things getting turned.

They have to sit, then move their front feet until they are facing the opposite direction. This is hard for a pupy to learn. But a clicker trainer will reward one foot moving without the rump breaking the sit. One step at a time a puppy can learn to keep at it because each movement in the right direction is recognized and promptly rewarded.

Never underestimate the power of positive encouragement!

A good side effect of clicker training the more complicated tasks is that the trainer doesn’t get discouraged either! You (I) develop an eye for seeing the things a puppy does right, and the positive encouragement given to the puppy is also positive encouragement for you and me.

With that in mind, how do I build on a new puppy’s natural inclination to keep trying? Often I use self rewarding toys, like the ones you can stuff treats in that come out as they play with it, or puzzle toys that drop out treats when they get it right. I also like clicker games that encourage a puppy to say, flip over a box for a treat.

Then I make the treat harder to get to, by putting it in a small pocket inside the box with the treat end just barely out of the pocket. Then maybe they have to move a bigger box or open a cabinet to get to the smaller box with the treat pocket. Letting them build on their past success limits frustration, which can make a pup give up like it does us.

Making what they want gradually harder to get to, requiring more problem solving on their part will build a keep at it attitude. At the same time I’m increasing their frustration tolerance, I’m building their curiosity, intelligence, and willingness to manipulate items in their environment.

Encouraging New Puppy Curiosity

A curious puppy is primed to build a huge skill set as a service dog.

This little girl here will not have much trouble learning to pull the dishwasher rack out for her disabled partner.

She might even be able to learn how to load and unload the diswasher.

All because she’s naturally curious enough to stick her nose in there! Curiosity is in my mind second only to attentiveness in importance for choosing and training a service dog.

The next 3-4 posts will stay pretty much with a brand new puppy; that first week or so in your home before you start taking them out and about much. That’s a crucial time for building a deep bond with a puppy, a relationship that will last a lifetime.

Puppies are naturally curious, the lovely little troublemakers! But an SD needs to be willing to notice and mess with anything. I break the curiosity category into 2; curious about objects (becomes retrieving), and curious about sounds (hearing alerts).

objects  

Everything is a toy to a new puppy, because everything is new to them. They don’t know what a dishtowel is for, right? So play with more than just doggie toys. Roll a can of mushrooms around on the floor, and reward them for chasing it, pawing it, and hey if they pick it up let ‘em play keep away with it!

Let an SD candidate pup get into your purse, or crawl into the closet and come out with a shoe. Make a game out of picking up anything outside of steak knives! If they turn up with one of your socks, give some happy love and show them how to put it in the hamper in exchange for a bully stick.

“Hide” their favorite toys in a drawer or kitchen cabinet while they watch and show them if they tug the strap, they can open the drawer and get their ducky baby. Reward them for following along (attentiveness) while you drag the laundry to the washer, and get them to play with or move the clothes around–later on they can learn to help you sort the piles.

The more stuff they get into, the better, which is kinda the opposite of how I’ve always raised my companion Danes.

Whatever object they show interest in, tell them the name so they can learn what it is, and show them what to do with it.

What trainers call ‘labeling’, is essentially nothing more than knowing the plastic tube that smells like vanilla is my Secret Deoderant.

A lot of “experts” say dogs can’t label very well if at all, but I know bettter. All of my Danes associated words with objects well enough to ID them, and go to them. A few would pick them up.

I don’t know why some folks don’t think dogs can label more than a few things like doors or their toys. I had a PET dane (Shabah) with a vocabulary of nearly 200 words. Another reason I love Great Danes! They have way more intelligence than “experts” credit them with.

So when a new pup shows interest in something, let him feel the texture, recognize it visually, learn the smell, accept the taste of unnatural things like metal, the sounds it makes when it moves. Use all their senses. The more senses they use to identify something, the more likely they are to remember the word (and action) that goes with it.

sounds

One thing I’ve noticed, about all of my Danes, anyway, is a noise sensitivity. I need to go heavy on getting them used to sounds, and helping them associate what that sound belongs to. 8 wks is about when a development peroid called “fear imprinting” sets in. So a bit of fright at this age can stick in their heads a long time.

Clanging dishes will be in their working life anytime I go to a restaurant. So I’ll be making lots of clanging noises, and if they notice it, I’ll tell them what it is. Clanging, banging, radios, beepings, delivery trucks, you name it they gotta be introduced and acclimate to work in public without being too distracted to focus.

A more passive way to help them accept and eventually ignore “scary” sounds like big trucks or air brakes is background music. Recordings of skateboards, city sounds, construction noise and the like can be played at home while they’re playing or resting or doing things with you.

Played low enough, they learn to ignore the background sounds readily as they concentrate on something else (play!!), and when I turn it up and they aren’t bothered by it, they get big rewards. This will help them keep their calm and their focus on their tasks later in public.

Some sounds I want them to not ignore: tea kettles, pots boiling over, a doorbell etc. When I want them to notice and alert me, I have to make a point of it. “OH do you hear (__)?” click, treat. That’s where it begins.

Teaching them to touch me when they hear it is as simple as luring their little nose with a marvelous treat from where it is to where it touches me. Combining the sound and the touch may take practice as seperate actions, but if you can get them to do it together right away, your hearing alerts will be learned fast!

Some also have had a body sensitivity: they didn’t like things on their bodies. So to prevent that, considering the weight and constriction of a mobility harness in their future, I start the tiny tots right away wearing something like a small tracking harness.

I will want them to pull in harness at times (up stairs, inclines etc), so I use the collar and leash to walk without pulling. This first week with a baby, I just want them used to having something on their bodies. Coats for cold weather, too, help them adjust to the sensation.

Most of all, have fun! They take lots of energy, and encouraging the traits they need for working life later is in addition to housebreaking, and socializing, and everything else a puppy needs.

But putting the time in now will make for less time formally “training” later.

Essential Attentiveness The First Week

To state the obvious, the pup can’t do what you ask if they aren’t paying attention to you.

That’s why you want to have picked a puppy that shows more interest in you than toys, boys, or noise!

There’s a window of heavy, fast development before 16 wks old. So laying a solid foundation of attentiveness can be nearly set in stone during that time.

But there is a window within that window: the first few days after a puppy has come to live with you.

As you allow them a few days to “settle in”, they are missing their littermates, their dams, and their former home. They are looking for some comfort in addition to exploring the new diggs.

That’s the time to really take advantage of their desire to be with you and interact. They don’t even need to have learned their new names yet to start encouraging attention. As they are “trained” to know and look when their name is called, there are even more opportunities to shape them into highly attentive pups.

I break this attentiveness training into 2 main headings: things I am doing and things the puppy likes doing.

Things I am doing:

The idea is to make being near you constantly rewarding. Not just with treats, as that makes the treats the reward. It’s ME that must be the reward: my affection, my attention, my ’making room’ for them in my world.

It’s dunderhead easy too! If they come to you when you’re busy, take a moment for a pat. Show them what you are doing, let them nose around your computer mouse, encourage them to touch you, and the like. Danes are terrifyingly smart, and don’t be surprised if they start learning words like computer, or cooking, or dusting in short order!

If they get tired of a bone and come to see you, for heavens sake stop and smooch ‘em! The more they want to be with you the more they will learn future tasks by watching you and being a part of what you were doing.

My personal schedule is in chronically low gear. That’s unavoidable due to my disabilities. But I will have to fight the oblivious-to-everything fibro brain fog with unrelenting will–even resting, or watching what little tv I watch will have times when a little tots will look at me.

Looking at me needs rewarding too! It’s attentiveness. Following me is attentiveness. Touching me when I lay down is attentiveness. Sticking their nose into what I’m doing is attentiveness. The more I watch dogs and puppies, the inattentive I realize we humans are!

What They Like To Do:

Exploring, playing, snoozing, cuddling…pups are wonderful! But one of the biggest lessons I learned from Kenai was if I let him go off and do his thing without me, he did. I had unknowingly taught him inattention! Which given his already rather inattentive personality…oops.

So playing toys with a brand new puppy makes me integral to their fun as well, and I become a reward again by being more enjoyable than chewing a bone by themselves. Games like tug, hide n seek, and even keep away can be shaped later into tasks, yes, but it’s just FUN for me too!

Running outside? I play chase me-chase you as much as I can. I can tug with the jolly ball whether standing or sitting. If they bring a toy to me, I can throw it (fetch, yes, glorious, adaptable into any task, fetch!)

What’s this and that games I love too. Investigate, learn the name of it with all its smells and textures and noises may be used later for task work. But right now, I am the “momma” showing them what’s in their world and what to do with it.

The snooze together (at least while touching them) is the best part for me: if you’ve never had a full grown Dane do a total body lean and snore, you don’t know what you’re missing! My scent transfers to them and goes right into that little brain. My heartbeat, and emotions are totally, entirely shared without a word spoken.

A puppy that learns to snooze with me, associates me also with relaxing, which comes in handy if they have a fright out in public sometime. None of these things require them to know their name, though it’s easily taught to them while doing these activities. Puppies communicate perfectly well without words.

Where Would I Start Again?

Since I don’t want to abandon this blog now that Kenai is gone, nor am I goin to get another puppy in the immediate future…here’s my temp plan: where would I start with another puppy? Choosing a pup, shaping a pup’s habits, socializing, training foundation skills, etc.

I know what I need from a service dog. I’d need a dog to help me with mobility and anxiety. Under those to words are alot of specific problems: I have fatigue from CFS, brain fog from FMS, balance problems from Meniere’s disease, and joint pain from Lyme disease.

I also have anxiety, triggered by crowds, loud environments, hostile/angry/negative people, and other things that bring up feelings of helplessness or being trapped. A generalized anxiety disorder can incapacitate a person as fast as physical problems.

So a ”mobility” dog is one that wears a harness to help me walk farther, sometimes to get up and down, to keep my balance, and generally get around.   I would also need him to help with the fatigue: he could bring items from the pantry for me, which reduces the energy it takes to cook supper.     Or he could carry in the grocery bags for me, to limit the amount of lifting I have to do.     Anything I can teach a puppy to do for me that lessens the number of steps it takes to accomplish something means the more I can accomplish in my day.     You’d be surprised all the moving parts involved in something as simple as going to the pharmacy.

An anxiety dog is a bit trickier: many if not most dogs have the natural inclination to move away from someone who is upset. An anxiety dog is willing to touch, and make body contact without getting upset themselves. I would need a pup that is able to both help me relax myself, and also calm enough to do things like help me navigate my way through a crowd to a more open space. He would have to be able to focus on his task while I am anxious.

What task skills I’m looking for covers many catagories of assistance, from standard mobility to a bit of guide dog tasks, a few hearing alert skills, and the difficult to train for anxiety/PTSD work. I’d need a very special young puppy.

****

First I’d have to pick a pup with just the right personality traits. A service dog has some serious skill sets, yes, but it is the personality and innate tendencies that make aquiring those skills possible.    One of the first things I’d look for is a breeder that heavily socializes a puppy before 8 wks. Exposure to noises, textures, people of all ages and the like is very important. Especially since there are someplaces that make me anxious.

If a puppy is accustomed to such loud and busy places before he comes to me, he is less likely to absorb my own anxiety about noise and crowds. I will be paying a clicker trainer to help socialize a pup in such places for me while they are little as well, to counter any “absorbing” he does from me.

Many SD programs that breed their own puppies begin “teaching” right from the time a puppy is born. They handle them, introduce tactile sensations like cold wet cloths, they encourage their play habits, curiosity, and being drawn naturally to humans.

Baby play like tug turns into opening cabinets, fridges, and doors. Curiosity turns into a willingness to interact with objects, ie later to pick up a can of green beans. Picking up and carrying a toy turns into retrieving items for a person. Handling results in a pup that isn’t too body sensitive to accept the tug and pull of harnesses or inevitable bumping.

So when a day comes that I go looking for a new Dane pup to train as an assistance dog, what I look for is attentiveness, curiosity, being undisturbed by noises, tenacity to keep at something, and a quickness to learn something “new” from me. Tall order!

I would love to have a relationship with a breeder where they would either give this sort of intensive play reward attention to a puppy before 8 weeks, or would allow me to interact with their little ones before 8 wks so I can find and shape just the right little love.

This gives a puppy a substantial head start in the roughly 2 year journey to becoming a service dog. In an ideal world…now wouldn’t that be lovely!

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