Puppy Aptitude Testing…by Lisa Harmon

 One of the “dangers” of going to look at a litter? THEY’RE ALL TOO CUTE! That being said, whether you are looking for a pet, a pup to run rally with you, or a companion, you should consider aptitude testing.

Why? Because nothing takes the joy out of a new puppy faster than realizing they aren’t well suited to your life or family. If you have a busy, kid-filled house and the puppy turns out to be a little timid and noise sensitive, not only does the puppy find your home stressful, you have a lot of changes and choices to make about what to do.

There’s a whole myriad of “uh-oh” that can happen when the owner and puppy aren’t well suited. It’s much better to have had the puppy’s temperment tested before paying for them and putting them through the unavoidable stress of coming to a strange home with strangers and no littermates.

Puppy Aptitude Testing (PAT) is nothing more than finding out the puppy’s natural personality. Most of them break down into simple tests to discover the pup’s level of social skills, learning abilities, and general sensitivity. These are typically done at 6-8 wks old, so the situations you can use to look for an unlearned response are both simple for the test and still novel to the pup.

There are a lot of temperment tests to choose from, as well, mostly variations on the Volhard temperment test: http://www.volhard.com/pages/pat.php I’ve recently purchased a book that is a slight ‘variant’ of the Volhard, designed and written by Joyce Guthrie. She is a breeder, trainer, and experienced Great Dane handler. http://www.lulu.com/spotlight/Vanna11

If possible, you would like a highly experienced person giving the test, and evaulating the results. You should also ask questions of them, like “when you say the puppy is (–), what impact does that have on our lifestyle or training needs?”. Have the evaluator give you details and recommendations not just for which puppy is best for you, but why and what you can expect the puppy to require of you and your family.

PAT is a complicated evaluation, requiring inferences and observational skills, which is why I recommend that it be given and interpreted by someone with experience. But to give you some understanding of the tests and what they are looking for, I’d like to at least hit the high points. I’ll look first at the social skills section of the tests in the next posts; social attraction, following, restraint responses, and level of independence.

A puppy’s natural inclination to come to you will have a big say on how easily they are trained in the future, and ultimately how well they will fit your life. I am no expert, mind you, but I can look back at puppies in my past and see how these tests absolutely predict the future. I’ve sorta “learned the hard way”, so please learn from my mistakes rather than have to make them yourself!

For social attraction and following, the tests are usually just clapping your hands or getting the puppy’s attention at a short distance to see how readily they come or follow you without being distracted, and what body language they show when doing so. I’ll use examples of my own past puppies for some comparison.

1) A puppy like my late Kenai would look at you but often hurry off with his littermates or follow the older dogs. When he did come, he didn’t stay long, looking around for something else to do.

He wasn’t anti-social, mind you. He just prefered canine company, and was pretty independent from the start. Crate training took about 3 days, because he was content enough to lay there by himself. He had a naturally easy temperment, in terms of not misbehaving or tearing things up. He was a calm guy when he was little.

However, I never did get a reliable off leash recall on him. He learned his basic obedience super fast, and was bombproof about noise and new environments when little. But once he made up his mind about a place or object, there was no changing it. Kenai was his own boy; he thought for himself, and problem solved on his own. This creates major challenges for advanced types of training.

2) Levi was in a hurry to come see you, and followed me all over the place. Normally his tail was up and wagging, his eyes happy for the attention. He was a very friendly little fellow, and his attentiveness to humans translated later on to being very easily taught to sit or come. Had there not been other problems I didn’t have the skill and energy to work out, he could have become an outstanding service dog.

3) Shabah couldn’t wait to come to a gentle person with a gentle voice and touch, but he approached with his head low and tail down doing a nervous wag. He was very shy of men and firm handlers in general. He later learned his obedience commands with terrifying speed, and had a nearly 200 word vocabulary, but he was so timid that just going to the pet store was stressful enough to cause him diarrhea. He took as much effort as Kenai on the opposite end of the spectrum, and I never really did trust him around children. He was my “heart dog”, a total soulmate of a pet, but alot of work.

***

Oddly enough, the only test that really talks about what Joyce Guthrie refers to as emotionally hard or soft dogs was her own book. All three of these puppies were emotially soft, even independent Kenai. He never required more than a mild scolding to stop unwanted behavior. If I was too harsh with any of them, they would be very upset and devastated. This is something you want to look for too–if your spouse has a tendency to get mad and yell, even an “independent” dog may not be able to cope with it.

If you are looking for a pup with a defined purpose, especially as an assitance dog, the Levi response is not negotiable. Assistance dogs must be human focused and set people as their highest priority. For a dog with that inclination, affection is one of the best rewards, and it makes them much easier to train at advanced levels. Mostly because you don’t have spend time trying merely to get them to pay attention to you.

Now if you have the skill and time to socialize a shy pup like Shabah, or keep a consistently firm but gentle hand with an independent dog like Kenai, then more power to you. However, most people will need to chose a pup like Levi. Shabah would not have done well in a loud, kid-filled home, or as a regular on the agility scene. Neither would Kenai, for very different reasons.

Learning the Dane Chill…by Lisa Harmon

 My early morning jolly ball time with the blue shark…Levi is 13 wks old now, and growing like, well, a Dane puppy!

A consult with a second trainer experienced with agression and anxiety issues had some added suggestions for Levi’s “issues”.

Truthfully I’m discouraged enough not to get my hopes up. But she believes he can be turned around (with rather endless practice for awhile).

Once again, we’re back to a kibble as treats, since he’s so persistant about things he shouldn’t do (he’d eat too much if he had much of a meal too). I HATE switching foods around as often as I have, but I gotta do what I gotta do. Much of what we’ve been doing continues, but with a few tweeks. And much more self-control exercises for Levi.

The kibble we’ve gone to is Wellness Super 5 Mix Large Breed. It has low minerals so he can have 4 cups or so a day, but enough fat etc to keep him satiated. I hope not to run out of those 4 cups before the end of the day, so I need to be aware of how much I’m using while we are working on his various exercises.

I’m a little torn about keeping Levi: I know there’s a good pup in there underneath all that misbehavior. I mean, it’s never taken me more than a few days to housebreak a Dane pup, and we’re 3 1/2 weeks in and he’s still whizzing on the floor. Then there’s the bite and shred and snarl…

I’ve never given up on a dog before, certainly not a puppy. Yet I’m expending tremendous time, energy, and money to assist the puppy I’d intended to assist me.

It’s possible he would do better with another person, with a more active lifestyle, one who doesn’t have chronic fatigue so they can keep on top of this training without negative effects on their health.

Someone who’s out and about, perhaps has other pups or dogs to take up his time when not interacting with a person might keep him more active and thus more tired. And the younger he is when going to another home, the better it would be.

But I’ve spent all my savings and then some already to aquire Levi, on trainers and classes, on vets and food.  Additionally I don’t know what the breeder would choose to do if I decide he’s more effort than I can physically manage. Since it was likely the shipping that traumatized him, to ship him back might greatly worsen his behavior.

Fortunately, Saturday was a fairly good day with Levi. It came at the cost of my legs, but he had 3, not 2, outside times and I kept him running until he laid down.

We did self-control exercises like stay and wait most all day long as prevention for the wildman stuff. I used “positive interrupters” to break off the frustrated bite at you’s.

(Positive interrupter:  a distracting action he can be rewarded for that also makes his biting at me and things physically impossible)

An example of a PI is hand target with his nose when he goes for the clothes while we walk, or an auto-sit to recieve a treat. We play attention games, name games, self control games… but then it occured to me that he’s excited to begin with. He gets even more excited about the prospect of food, so the training gets linked to higher and higher levels of excitement.

Levi doesn’t know how to relax, how to just chill. Most puppies nap a lot, but not Levi. When he can’t take any more of his own excitement or frustration, that’s when he explodes. Mom or I could just be sitting in a chair and he spits out his bone, suddenly snarls and lunges at us for no appearant reason.

He needs to learn how to “turn off” as much as he needs to learn self-control. He needs help “slowing down” so he CAN turn off.  So in addition to the stays/waits to gradually slow him down enough to settle himself…

I’m speaking to him now in soft tones, quiet voice, like you’d talk to a baby going to sleep. I’ve started rewarding him with food when he’s dozing, or say, when his head goes down to relax after something gets his attention…he’ll get probably 15 pieces of kibble in and 40 minute snooze while I watch TV.

Yep, it’s a continual effort, being aware of his stimulation level, how much it too much, how long he’s capable of holding a stay…Levi is a 24/7 dog.

The question is, will the chronic fatigue allow that? The fibro pain I can take OTC meds for, the Lyme inflammation I can take meds for. But there is no treatment other than rest and mild, measured exercise for CFS.

I dont’ get rest with Levi, and the physical exertion is way more than mild or measured. Can’t count on Mom, save perhaps to make things worse. Ugh, baby blue, will you promise to turn around and master the art of the Dane chill? Please, little love, I want so much to keep you and love you and have a happy life with you.

Good Days, Bad Days…by Lisa Harmon

Saturday and Sunday I was really fighting the fatigue (CFS), even with the Mitosynergy, and Sytropin. My brain is all but blue screened and the muscles are both weak and heavy as lead.

But we still made our outings. Saturday morning we returned to Finley River Park, as they were setting up for a cancer charity event. Levi had a mixed bag of reactions: some people he went right up to, and others he was spooked by.

We played a game with things that made him nervous: run up, touch, click and treat, and run away. The motor that was inflating a kids game house startled him, so we’d run up, touch the inflating item, then run away. It was a partial success but not total.

He is really shy of kids, even older kids. Monday at the courthouse with our trainer he did much better and was petted by a young girl, though. Fingers crossed. He’s much better when we’re out and around. Lisa S thinks its because there’s so many other distractions around him in public.

Sunday night was a really bad one with the frustration/biting etc. Uhg. He’d had lots of outdoor time, plenty of food and treats, even an outing Sunday morning. But come evening, oh boy.

Here he is discovering the joys of a jolly ball. He’s finally big enough to actually play with it!

He has a vet appointment for his 12 week vaccination Monday afternoon, so I wouldn’t be surprised if he’s a bit pooky for a day or two. But better that than coming down with parvo or distemper. His growth is pretty good, though he still is slightly turning out his front feet. Perhaps they will straighten up as the growth spurt slows down.

Starting today, Levi is going to have regular xpen time, so I can get a shower every day, or eat a meal in peace. Maybe even finished “Control Unleashed Puppy”? He’s going to have to learn to cope with his feelings on his own, since I cannot seem to alter them much. Almost 3 wks in, he isn’t responding to rewarding self-control exercises as well as I’d hoped.

I hope being confined doesn’t make him worse when he gets out, but jeez, I need a break sometimes. He’s going and grabbing the things I’ve practiced leave it with just to get attention and treats. He’s deliberately doing things to manipulate me now. This 24/7 demand for attention is too much to take. He’s gotta learn to lay down and chill out and leave me be sometimes.

 Levi really does well with men, and I was extra proud that he left the man’s tie alone when the guy bent over to pet him!

It’d be just like Levi to see what do ties taste like…but he didn’t. Good boy.

He even walked within about 10 feet of the mower there at the courthouse, though he was in a bit of a hurry. No loitering to sniff around that noisy thing…

He was a good boy during his training time, and wore out afterwards! He never barked or anything when the Orkin man came to the house. (He’s still doing outside only, since the grey shark here will eat things on the ground and lick floors…).

We’ll see how the regular pen time affects him. Got my fingers crossed.

That Park Was FUN…by Lisa Harmon

 Levi had a big time at Finley River Park here in our hometown. We started the morning with a run to the Shell station, but the highlight of his day was the park.

It was our 1 hour session with our trainer. There are two areas he can walk right down into the water, and he was splashing around in it with gusto.

He didn’t get to meet too many people, but he did get to watch geese, discover a water spigot, walk through a tunnel (an echo!), play a get ya so it don’t spook ya game when he wasn’t expecting it, and generally horse about. He didn’t know he was training, but we did.

Mom as expected has a myriad of excuses why she can’t work with him at any given time, and Tuesday was no exeption. So much for wanting to be involved–that idea lasted about a week after paws on the ground. I’d taken all the big talk with no small disbelief, but it irritates me some.

Levi also got to see some people get in a canoe! He wanted in until she reached to pet him, then he cried and ran back to me, stinker. Then he did it again. No conflict there, my silly boy. He’s become a tad shy despite his curiosity, not uncommon for his age (fear imprinting development stage), though he’ll probably get over that.

We slept for 3 hours when we got home, and he was a perfect angel. Then he woke up!

I hope he also gets over the food crazy, since he spent most of my cooking and eating supper time getting put in the xpen. It’s a worry for the future if he doesn’t, because going anywhere there’s food would be impossible. I hope he finishes getting housebroken, or going anywhere as a SDit will be impossible. If he continues to bite and be destructive when denied anything he wants, that makes even living with him impossible.

He’s still young, though. I’ll give another 3 weeks of bite inhibition, 3 hour feeding schedules, and vigilant potty training, then decide at 4 months old if the rectifying the behaviors are just too labor intensive to continue with him. That will have been 6 weeks of 12-15 hour days of working with him.

I know, it sounds awful, the idea of not keeping the little amigo. The assistance dog training is very difficult, very expensive, and takes roughly two years. But he has to make for a good companion before he can become anything else no matter how much potential he has. I have to be realistic about what I can manage since becoming disabled.

I knew at the outset I didn’t have the energy to put a lot of effort into basic behavioral rehab in addition to SD training, which is why I don’t rescue anymore.

I’ve honestly never had so much trouble with a puppy, and I hope that changes in the next month. If it doesn’t it won’t be for want of effort.

He is a cute little bugger, isn’t he?

Learning about the water spigot, he would get a few licks of water then look down and soak his own head. Lisa and I got a howl from that!

Levi’s sit is still excellent, and he’s very good about coming when his name is called. His down is still needing a lure to get compliance alot, the stay and wait is still in baby stage. But he’s also learning up (down to sit), stand, and the beginnings of brace front.

His hand targeting isn’t yet transfering to objects, so I’ll continue working on it too. I’m only giving him 1/2 cup of food in the bowl every 3-4 hours, because I’m using the kibble for treats after a click and we are training ALOT. He’s getting at least 4-5 cups of food a day total.

I’m going to try and convince Mom to at least take some pics and even see if I can get some videos up of our training. That’d be kinda fun! Cross my fingers though, since it requires her to be bothered with something. Still, he learns pretty darn well.

Later this week we’ll be in triple digits already, so our outdoor excursions will have to be early morning and late evening. That means a lot of running about in the house between 9am and 7pm, when the temps will be over 85F.

Socializing and Bite Inhibition…by Lisa Harmon

Mom would kill me if she knew I’d posted this but it’s such a sweet pic! Morning love time! Don’t anybody tell her?

Bringing a puppy into your home is stressful, and a new home is arguably more stressful for a puppy.

Levi’s transition from litter to my home has not been an easy one for either of us. Almost nothing is the same for him, no other dogs, no kids to romp about with, a different language and climate.

Strange how stress feeds on stress. Levi’s frustrated behaviors frustrate me, and vice versa.  So I first wanted to be sure my generalized anxiety disorder wasn’t contributing to, if not causing, his stress.

I know I can get frustrated, simply reacting to his mood. That’s how it goes when a person has GAD/PTSD. We’re like canaries in a mine, many of us, the first to be affected by the emotions around us.

So to see how much, or if, I was worsening things for him, Tuesday was “therapy time” for us both…The indicator? If he can pick up frustration from me, he can pick up peaceful too.

I have a theta brain wave CD and a special set of glasses that use light to bring the brain into a theta state. This combined with biofeedback is a powerful tool for inducing a deeply relaxed yet aware state.

I brought him on the bed to doze while I used the music and light to relax. He had a nap while I was doing my biofeedback. When we got up, it was time to feed him et all and boom–pacing, fussing after he ate, chewing things he has gotten a bit scolded for…especially me. The works.

So it isn’t me neccessarily worsening things for him. The therapy time did help me not to become frustrated, but it didn’t prevent his outbursts. Whew…I’m not feeding him negative emotion passively. Just when I do get frustrated and act like it. That’s fixable.

After hearing back from a trainer friend (Smart Dog University) who explained what she does to train bite inhibition, and reading the theory behind it as explained by Ian Dunbar, I have a workable solution to the blood drawing!  (http://www.clickertraining.com/node/725)

My friend confirmed a guess that it was indeed frustration intolerance at the root, and I needed to get a tether to begin moving away out of reach when he’s too frustrated and acting out. When he calms down, I can move back to interact and play with him.

The training reduces the intesity of nipping first, then the frequency. She also recommended I start with the book “Control Unleashed” asap.

So I’ve ordered a tether priority mail http://www.baddogsinc.com/pettethers.html, and have to order another copy of “Control Unleashed” since I haven’t found mine post-move. No more boxes are left to unpack so the book didn’t come with me I guess.

***

On a more fun subject: Levi has had a few firsts. Here he is being introduced to ice cubes!

He loves to mess with them. They slide around, they’re cold on the toes, feel good on teething gums, and are slippery!

…all the better to chase you my dear ice cube!

Tuesday Levi also went to All Pets Supply with Mom and I. He enjoyed meeting people and wandering all around, doing quite well with the leash Mom had. I was hunting chew toys and bones. But Levi was checkin out everything. He loved the attention from strangers, even climbing into laps for his baby love.

One very enthusiastic person he wasn’t sure about (dogs often shy away from overly excited people and dogs). So a hand full of treats for him to munch on while she petted him and checked out his giant feet did the trick. He’s got the hang of this socializing stuff!

There was one hyper dog, but we kept him away from her–she was very over the top. I petted her, but Levi gladly went elsewheres with Mom. The store cat he was cool with, even laying down and putting out a foot to invite her to play. Kitty wasn’t interested, and he was okay with that.

I loved watching his instincts with that cat: she’s eyeing him, he makes himself approachable, she comes closer, he invites her to play, she walks away, he sniffs then goes on.

The whole business was a calm affair, and I was busting my buttons at the little dear’s lovely good critter to critter manners!

Thank heavens he’s so food motivated–even when stressed or unsure, he will take a treat. That allows me to lure him forward, and reward him for investigating. He’s pretty curious and friendly to begin with, too. That’s working in our favor!

Starting to Socialize…by Lisa Harmon

 Yes, Levi, that’s a camera!

Levi’s been out and about some already, going to a Subway one evening with us, the hardware store another. He’s not gone inside anywhere of course, but exploring the sidewalk and getting petted is good for him.

Monday morning I put him in the car with just me (Mom was sleeping), and we drove around the block. He was anxious, used to being in the back seat with someone to cuddle with.

He’s having trouble settling in, poor kid. Poor us, too. Wow he’s been a tough challenge so far. But he sits on command, and I’m starting to reduce the treat luring for the down. Loose leash walking is going well too. Leave it and let go, is the most oft practiced. I can’t take my eyes off him: did that a few minutes ago and he had unplugged my laptop, about to chew the cord. YIKES!

Housebreaking is going much better, at least.

 I’ve blocked off the deck so he can’t run up to the door to be let in: he has to run about and play. So stinker Shark has his outside time.

Most of the time he’s pretty good at seeing I’ve walked away, and has a good gallop to catch up. We take lots of little walks too, giving him a chance to eliminate outside, then explore some.

He’s super food motivated, so I got lucky there! We haven’t started the find it games at all, nor the pace with me games yet either. I’d like to, but his nip and chew with the subsequent ”leave it” and “let go” practice seems to be taking up all our time. (and my energy…)

I’m hoping to get him into a puppy kindergarden class this Thursday, too. It would do him good to interact with other puppies. Let him bite and chew on them for an hour instead of me!

Monday night I finally got to sleep in my own bed, now that the housebreaking has reached a reliable enough level of success, and he is sleeping for longer periods. He was pretty durn good, little guy.

Keepin Me Real…by Lisa Harmon

I’ve a small confession: the past few days have been a rollercoaster. I usually do get stressed a bit by the housebreaking, nipping lessons and such. But sweet cuddly Levi was like the “worst” puppy I’d ever had, when I’m feeling poorly to start with. I was actually finding myself having regrets.

Since I also usually get a new puppy to the vet within a few days, I had a scheduled appointment Thursday.

A thousand worries went with us: was he too traumatized by the shipping, did living with a couple “old ladies” not keep him entertained like a family with kids?

Was he too sensitive to deal with my own stress, or is he just going to be one of those hellion boys until he’s grown…

Something wasn’t right, ’cause this is fussy puppy on steroids. Sure enough…just when I convince myself I’m a total ninny, it turns out I’m not.

My little grey shark has a rather big bladder infection, hence the potty training craziness. And his ears have the start of a yeast infection too. He’s not a hellion, he’s just a cranky chewing fiend of a patient who can’t help the fire hose peeing. Guilty…for starting to scold him when he would come inside and water the floorboards.

So plan B potty training: making going outside an even bigger reward, and do nothing but clean up the inside whiz. Bless him though, he’s stuck in the kitchen until after he’s really let out lots of urine outside. Then he can tromp and pounce around the rest of the house for 15 or 20 minutes. Then back to the laminate floor kitchen.

He’s much happier about going outside now, even at night (it’s around the clock vigilance). He’s getting treats which he loves to the point of forgetting why he’s out there to begin with! He’s discovered he can chew the living daylights out of empty water bottles all he wants, too.

***

I’ve started adding “eval” type pages for short summaries in the training areas specifying what Levi and I are doing, well or not well. I shall try to update them weekly too, so I have a record for myself to look back on, learn from, and be amazed by.

Even with all the above going on, Levi has shown himself to be very high potential: he hand targets very well already, knows his name, sits without luring now. In 24 hours…wow.

He will do absolutely anything for food, so I’m very fortunate there. And he is amazingly attentive: he watches me most of the time, even outside and around other neighborhood dogs.

He follows, he bugs, he paws for attention regularly. The down side of the persistance needed for a service dog: he’s not dissuaded easily. The future holds an ongoing battle of “leave its” for many a thing.

Fortunately Levi doesn’t startle much. When he does, like the crackling of an empty water bottle, it doesn’t take much of my playing with it, and treats to get him over his initial reservations. In fact the water bottle is now his favorite toy. Never underestimate the power of curiosity in a puppy!

(and to think just Thursday morning I was fearful I had made a terrible mistake getting a puppy right now…) No point in being wrong if it don’t show, right?

There’s a reason why I tell my ego to get stuffed and write down even my silliness for the world to see. Owner training a service dog is just that; owner training. If I was the slick laid back, got-every-tiger-by-the-tail person my pride would want me to pretend to be, I wouldn’t need a service dog in the first place. And it wouldn’t be honest.

Dishonesty doesn’t help anyone and there are many people who think they aren’t slick enough of a trainer to do it themselves. Knowing what you really truly cannot do, versus what you are afraid you cannot do is the key.

Puppies are naturally rough around the edges and messy. I am too when the puppy stress hits me. If I give Levi the right to be imperfect as any puppy is, then I give it to myself too. I’ll get back in the swing of puppy training, I’ll find a groove, and when he goes sideways in adolescence, I probably will too.

Oddly enough, the same tenacity we look for in a service dog candidate is just as needed in the owner trainer.

Hear That Games for SDit

The “hear that” games for a 2-3 month old puppy were about recognizing what object makes what sound. Alot of sounds service dogs alert and respond to are 1–beeping (coffee pots, watches, alarm clocks), 2–ringing (phones, doorbells, cooking timers), and 3–human made noises (dropped items, handler’s name called).

There are other alerts as well; to vehicles so a person doesn’t get hit by the car they didn’t see or hear, a pan on the stove forgotten about, bikes coming too close from behind, the bathtub faucet left on by a distracted handler.

The beeps, rings, and human voice alerts are what I focus on for youngsters. The others mentioned are difficult, and often require more complex training.

Noticing certain sounds while ignoring others really has to be taught. I’m not usually too hearing impaired, having an odd mix of hypersensitivity to noise and yet not noticing sounds sometimes. When I need an alert, I really kinda do need it though.

I am able to teach these sound alerts when my ears aren’t full of noise and I’m reasonably un-foggy. If you have consistant hearing difficulty, you’ll likely need a family member or trainer to assist on the alerts for you.

There is many a moving part to a hearing alert and response, which means a thousand things can go sideways on you! So just like other tasks and obedience commands I avoid lumping by practicing the individual “parts” seperately with little pups.

I began by drawing attention to a sound I want to be alerted to, and luring a touch from them. Provide ample and consistant click and reward each time the sound occurs, and they begin to automatically look then touch, anticipating their yummy.

The “find it games” makes yet another appearance, when I ask them to then find what made the sound they’ve alerted me to.

If they know what a coffee pot is and where it’s at on the counter. They might also know the door greeting ritual. It’s just a matter of putting those parts together in a behavior chain.

Now that they can alert to the cooking timer, I will wait on the click and treat and ask them to find first. When they show me the timer, they get their click and considerable rewards. Since I’m putting more than one thing together now, I need to make concentrating easier.

So reduce the distractions around them by beginning this when the house is quiet and bones put away, lessen the distance they have to go to find the source of the sound, and increase the value as well as the amount of their reward. As they become reliable with an alert and find, you can re-introduce distraction and distance.

Here is a document you can download with a fairly large list you can alter to your own needs: HEARING ALERTS

The majority of my problems with hearing are related to the inner ear or forgetfulness.

Can’t count the number of times I forgot there was something in the microwave, or had too much ringing in my ears to notice the coffee maker beeped when it went off.

Rarely do I need to be awakened for an alarm clock or the house alarm (wow those are loud).

But I still want to teach some hearing alerts, especially for when ‘me and he’ are in public. I’m usually concentrating too hard to hear my name called in a busy restaurant. Most of the time I hear the cell phone because I only turn it on when I’m expecting to hear from someone. Sometimes I miss it though.

Counterbalance Side, Forward, and Backward

These are the big three for me, the counterbalance side, forward and backward. Counterbalancing is a more natural behavior for dogs than bracing, so it’s much easier to “train”.

I put the word train in quotes because it’s not usually something I have to teach, I just capture–click and reward when the puppy does it naturally.

This is a nearly 6 mo old European bred Dane, and big as they are already, they are a full year away from being grown, and cannot bear weight yet. So ALL the brace and counterbalance practice is really just about positions and responses. It’s mild, and has to be.

It’s actually quite hard to find pics of service dogs counterbalancing–it’s often such a smooth action that ya really have to look to see it. That’s the point, too! A counterbalance becomes just normal part of walking with their partner.

Once the puppy has learned these actions fairly well, they also get thrown into the “pace with me” games, to help the task become smooth. This 1) speed up the noticing there’s a change in my body position and harness, and 2) help make that change a cue for a default action on their part.

Counterbalance Side

This is the most commonly used counterbalance for me, since I sorta wobble. Often it is paired with a brace side, thanks to the wobble. This is a pic of a brace side, and the dog’s body is showing uncertainty–the hunched back, and ear position. Many dogs find bracing strange.

Counterbalancing though is a normal balance response, and less likely to create canine uncertainty if approached with positive training methods.

It’s very simple really: when I lean away from the puppy, it pulls on their harness, and their instinct is to lean the other direction so they don’t fall over either.

Alot of times, by 4-6 mo old a puppy is so used to my gait that they’ve probably already learned to do this on their own. But I still have at least a handful of “practices” for it. I lean, they lean the other way, get a click and a reward.

Some dogs, however, are so unconcerned about being pulled on they need a fairly hard pull on the harness to respond, and can be a little surprised by it. Especially if you are working with an older dog whose weight is such they don’t need to react to smaller leans, their weight takes care of it.

If your pup seems taken aback by the action, make sure to laugh and stroke them while handing out extra good rewards. You want to overcome the surprise with very positive feelings about what they just encountered, and how well they responded. Then do the hard lean again several times so they understand the “I did this, you did that, very GOOD!”

Since a person (unnamed…) can also fall to the side, I mix up how hard I lean. Sometimes, most of the time, only a small balance correction is needed to keep me upright, but sometimes I give them a more sudden and steep lean. Of course, those counterbalances get the biggest and best rewards.

Counterbalance Forward

With the disclaimer that I don't know what many programs call this task...

when I lean back while walking or standing, I want the pup to lean forward. I don’t even teach the puppy the name of the task, so it doesn’t matter to me what it’s called so long as it’s comfortable and easy for the human to remember.

Most pups will also do this naturally. If you’ve ever walked a “puller” you know if you pull back on the leash, they dog pulls forward more. So I begin very simply by leaning backwards while holding their harness handle and wait for them to lean forward so I can click and reward.

After doing that 2 or 3 times in a row, I make sure they notice me click a leash on their collar and reward them for walking loose leash with me a little ways. The intention is to  seperate in their minds walking with a leash and walking with my hand on the harness. I don’t want them pulling on the leash.

If a pup isn’t catching onto the idea I will get a friend to use a treat lure in front of their noses, until they are starting to go forward when there is a pull back on their harness.

This pic shows a simple lure.

Then I wean off the treat lure by hiding the treat, pulling back and waiting for their forward lean before they get a click and the treat.

Counterbalance Backward

Like counterbalance forward, I don’t teach the puppy the name of it, so I don’t care what it’s called formally. And like CB forward, the name I use comes from the action I want the puppy to take: to lean backward if my body is starting to tilt forward while we walk or stand.

This is only for a small bit of forward leaning. If I’m stumbling or taking a header, the action I want is a rapid brace front. This puts their shoulders, the strongest part of their body, right in front of me. If this is happening, the change of body position is usually very sudden and the movement of the harness is also sudden and strong.

When I start to pitch just a little forward, it is usually a gradual shifting and pulls forward slightly on the harness handle. That is their cue to shift their weight back for a counterbalance. I capture it by leaning, waiting for them to shift their weight, then click and reward.

Some pups though will want to come forward a step or two, particularly if they’ve had alot of practice at the stumbling brace front. It’s important they know the difference or I’ll find a walk frequently interrupted with a brace front. So I will often do the stumbling brace front and counterbalance backward in quick succession.

Hopefully they will make their own associations about hard and fast = brace front, where as slow and slight = counterbalance backward. I can always make the contrast more stark, and use a lure to assist the pup in making the right decision for awhile! Then it’s play time, having “worked” so hard…

Color And Number Recognition for SDit

Between 8-16 weeks old, I begin training a little pup to recognize colors and numbers. By 4-6 months old, they should be pretty good at recognizing colors and big shapes. Dog vision is different, and they recognize blue and yellow pretty well. What we see as red or green is not the red or green we see. But like us, dogs can often recognize various shades of a color.

Teaching Colors for Tasks

Color recognition helps a service dog or service dog in training in many ways, from recognizing visually which soda I want (red soda or black soda is regular Coke or Coke Zero), to the walk/don’t walk signal at a crosswalk.

Great Danes in olden days hunted using both scent and sight, so I’m hoping to tap into this instinct, as “find it” is really just hunting.

If I’m not feeling well, a pup can learn to recognize that Pepto doesn’t look like Nyquil, and bring the one I ask for. They probably also use their noses to differentiate, but color is the main factor in recognizing an item from a distance.

So when I began teaching a tiny tot, I used construction paper for them to “target”. I say the color when putting a treat on the paper, to teach both the name of the color and to touch with nose or paw when I said the word. Then I will hold up the paper to say the word, get them to touch it on their own without a treat, then give a click/reward.

When they regularly touch, say the yellow paper, I will then add a blue paper the same way. Once both colors have been used alot, I will ask for one color while both papers are present. Hopefully the pup will have made the connection with the word and that color paper.

If not, I need to return to using an additional cue: I’ll say “yellow” and point, so they can go touch it, get their click, and a reward. Then I’ll say “blue” and point. After doing this for a time, I try just saying “yellow” and wait. If the pup goes to yellow, hurrah! If he’s thinking about it, but isn’t deciding I again point.

The idea is to lengthen the amount of time between word and cue to allow the pup to decide on his own which color is which. If the pup then starts going to the wrong color, I interrupt with a point, and practice the right one some more. Once a puppy has learned the two colors, targeting the color asked for regularly, I will add a third color, then a fourth and so on.

I also use objects that have the same shape, but are different colors, like the red soda and the black soda. Or white candle and yellow candle (unscented). With luck and practice the pup has gotten the hang of this by 4 months old.

Now those colors kick in as a task: find the red soda, or the blue deoderant, or the white blanket. I continue to click and reward the find, the touch, the pick up if they do it, and the bring if they do it as seperate steps. When a pup just automatically touches, picks up, and brings, they only need a click and reward for the whole chain.

This color recognition then branches out: ask for the yellow sock, the red towel, the black purse, the purple scarf, the oranges at the store, the prescription bottle with the blue sticker dot. Anything that helps a puppy seperate one item from another gives them tools to use in deciding which item you want.

Teaching Numbers for Tasks

Number recognition is also very useful for service dogs. I know a dog can read a clock: I had one that did. He’d look at the clock, see it was 9pm and he would get up, nudge me, and want to go to bed.

I use flash cards at first, the same way as the contruction paper for colors. Then I’ll use post it notes on doors or cabinets or the hallway wall for them to find and touch for their click and treat.

Next I begin using a big fake “clock” they can target numbers on, made of whatever’s around. A big paper or cloth with numbers on it that I can move the “hands” on is perfect. Larger is easier to see, so that’s where I start. A digital alarm clock with large numbers is also an option to train with.

A clock requires number recognition up to 12. If a pup just can’t seem to get double digits as 11 or 12, I don’t mind saying “one, one” or “one, two”, using the double digit numbers as a 2 number combination. This is easier for some puppies.

For people like me who have difficulty remembering things sometimes, or people with TBI (traumatic brain injury), strokes, and other cognitive struggles, a dog that can read a clock can remind you to take your medicine, that it’s time to pick up the kids at school, or time to get up from resting.

Typically the time related tasks need to be regular, part of a consistant routine for a dog to do them well. Like us, dogs become used to routines, and want to follow a usual order of activities. So recognizing the time doesn’t come out of the blue, it just becomes a cue for a part of their everyday routine.

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