Preparing a Puppy for the World of Humans

Having a well adjusted dog starts with a puppy coming to enjoy a variety of new things. It’s official term is “socialization”. Laurie Luck over at Smart Dog University is a fabulous trainer, and I love to read her blog. This is a bit of a flashback in time, back when she was raising Talos the Dane puppy to become a grown up Great Dane Service dog. But these truths are timeless:

The key to introducing your dog to something novel is to do it incrementally, to do it systematically, and to always (and I mean always!) go at your dog’s pace. If you see signs of anxiety (tucked tail, ears back, lip licking, hiding behind your legs), STOP! Move further away, speak calmly and quietly to your dog, and try to feed some extra yummy treats. If your dog isn’t eating those delicious treats, you know he’s still too stressed. Move even farther away. Keep moving away until the dog’s body language is more relaxed and until he’s able to take treats. http://smartdog.typepad.com/smart_dog/2009/12/fear-not-video.html#

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Each dog or puppy will have their own set of triggers. For my late Kenai, it was the post office. He could hear those mechanical noises he feared so much, but couldn’t see what was causing them. For some dogs, it is people rushing up to them head-on.

There is no such thing as a “perfect” service dog, to be honest. They are living creatures, and have their own quirks like any other. But assistance dogs really have to be as close to perfect in their behavior as possible.

Why?

They live and work in an unnatural world. A human world is chock full of unnatural things, like mechanical sounds, chemical smells, and people acting in ways that don’t make sense to a dog. After all, dogs didn’t invent cars!

All dogs have to become fluent in the ways of the human world and human quirks to be a part of it, through exposure and socialization. Just going to the pet store is an excursion into an unnatural world. But service dogs have to become at home in it.

Otherwise, they will often find it a struggle to focus and complete the tasks that make them a service dog for a disabled handler. So how you expose a service dog candidate or service dog in training to some new experience really does matter in the long term.  Bad experiences last, so if you’re having a bad hair day yourself, let the outing wait.

It is really helpful to have made a written list of every type of surface, sound, smell, and sight that you can think of. Just take stairs: there are wide stairs, narrow stairs, spiral stairs, tall stairs, concrete stairs, metal stairs, wood stairs… A dog’s senses of their environment are much more acute than ours, so they will notice the feel underfoot and height, the trace smells of shoes and the like.

Those things are background to us, and service dogs have to be regularly exposed to almost everything for it to fade into the background the way it does for us. Essentially, they have to be desensitized. These experiences have to continue long after puppyhood for them to remain familiar and comfortable, too. But the first exposures are the most important.

Choices from America…by Lisa Harmon

AMERICAN DANES

Overall, I’m not pleased with the state of Great Danes in America. They’ve become either tiny and delicate, or disproportionately tall and scrawny. When I was young it was typical for even a fawn male, which tends to be smaller than say a mantle, to weigh in about 170 pounds.

This is a nice quality Dane here, but still very small and to my eye, insubstantial for an intact male. Back in the day, ya didn’t see the average Dane with long chicken legs, snipey heads, and narrow chests outside of poor quality puppy mills. It’s hard to find even a good male like the one in this pic these days.

I believe the rewarding of AKC show judges for “elegant” and “refined” has weakened the Great Dane overall. My opinion, for what it’s worth. And the explosion of uninformed pet owners that breed without a clue to what makes a truly beautiful, sound Dane has made the selection of Great Danes a frustrating experience for anyone who remembers what Danes used to look like, move like, and their former longevity.

It’s been 40 yrs since I met my first Dane, and the widespread weenie-ness of Great Danes I see these days sent me looking for European bloodlines a few years ago. The European breeders have generally maintained the working dog body: shorter, heavy boned, muscluar and athletic Dane.

This intact brindle is more like what I remember, and what I admire as the traditional standard. This dog could work for years and never wear out. If he could pull a cart, he could pull me up a steep slope once in awhile without developing arthritis at 5 yrs old.

My philosophy is a dog was created to work for and with humans. Once upon a time, they weren’t accessories, not intended for nothing more than to be well, decorative. Since I need a Dane that can work, can bear weight, can carry a pack, I cannot have a delicate decoration.

That being said, there are some American Breeders with strong, well built, substantial dogs to choose from. And I’ve stuck to the desire for ENS and rules of seven socializing that the breeder must do before an 8 wk old comes home with me. I will certainly clicker train, and use the “Control Unleashed Puppy” once I get them, but the breeder has as much or more to do with a pups future success than most people realize.

My American Breeder Choices

Saravilla Danes has American Danes, with the harl lines, which produce harlequins, mantles, and occasional blacks. They also work with ChromaDane, who won’t have pups available even next year. They are excellent breeders using ENS and other socializing techniques in their pre-7wk old puppies.

http://saravillagreatdanes.com/

There is nothing insubstantial about their dogs, and I like that. Unfortunately I don’t prefer the harl/mantle color for Danes, just as a matter of personal tastes. But if their dogs have the goods for a working dog, I gotta put on my big girl panties and care less about superficial stuff like coat color.

Saravilla requires a good kibble, and approves of neutering after sexual maturity even for companions. She also is a welcoming and visitor-friendly lady. So a trip to Ohio is in my near future! My only concern is working dogs tend to have higher energy levels, and having Chronic Fatigue…

I may ask for a show quality male, and have a go at conformation shows. It’s expensive and alot of work, but it is the best way to learn what really makes a dog’s body structually sound, what it takes to have smooth ergonomics so the joints last, and a tolerant disposition. All of which is essential for a working dog.

Being an experienced Dane owner, I got the basics of conformation: a straight topline, good angles in the stack, a nicely shaped head. But there’s a big difference between an experienced owner’s eye, and a breeder/shower’s eye. There’s much to learn there.

Green Bean, the big beautiful black Dane!

It’s a strange name for such a majestic, laid back fellow. But he’s no scrawny string bean. His owner strictly follows the GDCA code of ethics in breeding. I’ve known them from Facebook for awhile now, and they seriously know their Dane genetics!

Green Bean is not only gorgeous and well built. He is a (get this) a Dock Diving Dane, who watches the fireworks in the park, and never gets in a flap.

I’m aware of the “black dog syndrome”, and would expect perhaps more access challenges if one of Beanie Boy’s pups becomes my service dog. But heck, any Dane attracts serious attention in a grocery store or restaurant.

I have come to love Bean’s owner, and trust their judgement. They were “there” for me during the heartbreaking ordeal with Levi, and gladly volunteered to help me find a puppy that I would have a much better chance of success with. Kindness makes a world of difference to me.

LIBERTY DANES https://www.facebook.com/#!/libertydanes.lrs?sk=info

I’ve not had much contact with this lady yet, but I do now have a phone number. She not only trains, shows, and uses her harl lines for assistance dogs, she has a Dane SD herself. I am hoping like crazy she will agree to mentor me, teach me, and make a durn good owner trainer out of me. Her expertise in puppy aptitude testing would make a huge difference for me, reducing the chances of another wash out.

Again, the harl lines I don’t prefer, but even if I purchase a black Bean boy, I hope very much she will become a world of help to me. She has experience in both the conformation ring and the service dog training arena. And the center she works and trains at is only 3 hours drive time from my home.

Doing Better All the Time…by Lisa Harmon

I remember someone else who used to stand there and say “nope, not playin in the sprinkler”…Levi 12 wks old

Today Levi is 12 weeks old! My little amigo has just 1 month left in that relatively easy socializing and super fast learning window (the first 16 weeks of life). EEK! Four more weeks of trying to ensure he has a good experience with a wide variety of places, people, and other dogs.

Of course, socializing goes on (or should) for a dog’s whole life, but the first 3 months of life is when a puppy most easily accepts new experiences that will shape their behaviors most of their lives.

Levi’s basic obedience class was Thursday night, and after the class there is a social time for the dogs. Last night’s best bud for Levi was a Jack Russell mix named Finley. Finley is a high energy guy, but fairly well mannered about his play so he and Levi had themselves a really good game of nip and swat.

The same didn’t translate to a retriever named Jack, who was very physical whether a dog liked it or not. Levi didn’t like it. They started off good, and Levi being Levi approached nice and gave a very gentle paw on the nose, a few gentle play bows. But Jack was both hyper and all over him, which spooked him.

I called Levi away, and he avoided Jack the rest of the play time. He was spooked enough that he didn’t want people to pet him either, though he’d met all the two legged folks already. Thankfully he happily returned to Finley, so we let him play a few moments then decided it was time to go.

As Levi gets bigger, I think he won’t be so intimidated by more physical playing strangers. Between his burgeoning size and the testosterone-fueled confidence of the 4 month old stage he will soon enter, Levi will probably be as full of rumpus as Jack is!

As for his class, the program was about learning a polite greeting and learning to settle. Levi already has these habits naturally. The poor teacher could get him to jump or spaz! Not good for demo but sure made me proud!

Since there was no jumping to practice teaching him not to jump, I used the time to do a few other things for him. One was get used to the barking, with a click and treat when the barks happened. No problem for toots. He settles right down next to me and stays calm.

Another was brace front: I just use a lure to get him in front of me when I’m ready to stand or sit.

Young as he is, this is only for positioning and preparing him. Soon enough this will be a mainstay of his working life, so I want to make it a default behavior.

Default behaviors are simply things a pup will do automatically, either by reinforcing something they do on their own, or by repetition.

Essentially, a default behavior is a habit.

There are two parts to a brace front. This coming into position, and also accepting pressure on their shoulders. Both parts need a click and a treat to reward. Levi loves his food, so he’s up for anything that involves having a yummy. I say the word with a treat lure to follow until he’s in the right position, then click and treat.

Next was pressure on his shoulders while I stood, also followed by a click and treat. You can see from his body language he’s pretty unconcerned about the whole thing.

He’s not the least bit body sensitive, thankfully, so he doesn’t care about the brace. (Oops, also forgot his harness again, so it has to go in my purse from now on!)

Some dogs dislike the bracing, and will need considerably more reward for accepting it. Kenai needed lots of reassurance at first, then decided that was just how we roll.

Levi takes it all in stride, and his young age may be part of why he so easily accepts the pressure on his body.

I was so proud of him! I have to watch myself, in fact, not to get that showing him off tendency. Yes he’s doing great with his beginning task training, but he is young and has several more developmental stages to grow through. He can be killer good now and come apart later, so I gotta watch the excess prideful or feel like a ding dong later!

Right now though, Levi is wonderful in his obedience training. His home behavior is improving too. On advice I decided to try feeding him raw to see how that affected the crazy food drive. Day one was a remarkable change: instead of eating every 3 hours and being most nippy after meals, he easily goes 4-5 hours between raw meals with very little nip and chew.

That’s only day one though. Friday is day 2, and I’m watching for bone and joint pain since the only raw I have leftover from Kenai and BB is red meats. The beef and buffalo like all red meats are naturally higher in phosphorous, which is the primary culprit in growth problems like PANO, HOD, knuckling over, and splaying feet.

So Friday morning we are heading to All Pets to see if we can find some chicken or turkey to take home with us. I’ll order a case of Bravo venison for a different red meat, as well as chicken, turkey, salmon, and duck for him. That will stock the freezer well for such a small fella.

He needs at least some red meat, since red meats contain amino acids and nutrients that white meats don’t. Variety of protiens is important when feeding raw. I didn’t want to feed raw this time because of the expense, but if I can use it to reduce the frequency of feeding until the 2 cups a day of grain free Blue Buffalo is sufficient, then I’ll do it.

Levi the Explorer…by Lisa Harmon

Levi at Springfield Lake, 11 wks

Levi had a busy early Sunday morning: he went to the lake! With the temps in the 90′s F here, we are doing the outside-only stuff early in the morning. Evenings are still in the 80′s F.

So baby blue boy was out the door at 7:30 am. He had a long walk since I missed the access road, but we got to an area where he could walk into the water for a cool down.

He didn’t like the drop off that took the water from mid leg to chest high, but he stood still while I wetted him down the rest of the way.

Then we found this shady spot to sit and watch the fishing and families around. He was a bit shy of them, so he got a bunch of treats when someone walked past, and we did a tiny little sit/down clicker practice–I was hoping it would help him regain his curiosity.

I think he was getting tired by the time we reached the lake, since he’d happily met walkers on the nature trail. He even pulled the leash trying to catch up with them!

The trail has dips and inclines, which I filed away for future harness work practice (pull, brace). I’ll get his vest and little harness ordered next month, and start him wearing it at about 4 months old. (He’ll be 3 mo this coming Friday).

While he toddled along I watched his movement: the topline stayed straight, the back didn’t roll, his gait was smooth and easy…WOW I love his conformation. That good solid movement will protect his joints from excess wear during his working career and beyond.

You can see in the pic he woke up skinny Sunday morning–he’s growing, as Dane pups are famous for.

Since I’ve had to switch him to a junk and filler-filled food to safely provide him quantity of kibble, he’s been better about the rampant biting and chewing.

The Science Diet is a food I dislike because of the junk and filler, but the minerals are more than low enough to safely feed him 1/2 cup of kibble every 3-4 hours to keep him feeling full. It’s also corrected the early stage knuckling over and front foot turn-out he was starting to show.

I don’t like how his coat looks on the Science diet, so I’ve continued adding salmon oil. And I don’t know that he’s getting enough protien for good muscle condition. Still, he needs quantity for more manageable behavior right now, and it’s not like I can’t switch him back to a better quality food later.

I have noticed that Levi is “braver” in public when Mom’s with us, and yet, more nippy and frustrated when she’s with us at home. Not sure what to make of that, other than making sure Mom’s with us for the more difficult social outings.

I know I missed several opportunities for a click n treat to aid his socializing, and I’m hoping the “Control Unleashed Puppy” book comes soon so I can start getting back in the groove.

 I can’t seem to get my brain to multitask: watch his body language, watch where we go and what’s around us, interact with people, AND use the clicker. Yeesh.

It’s easier if someone else is there to interact with people so I can focus on Levi better. At least until the click becomes more habitual to me again.

Appearantly, I need to practice in less distracting places first too!

We’ve gotten the “down” down pretty good, though he still wants his lure. I’m just waiting him out: he auto sits when there’s food, so I wait until he guesses he’ll try a down, then he gets a click and treat.

And I’ve also ordered some recorded sounds and puppy relaxation tapes. The recorded sounds are designed to be very life like, and since we will use them at home, I can focus on the “hear that” with a click and treat. (Less distracting for us both!).

Levi learning step up, 11 wks

Another new thing Levi’s learning to to stop with only his front feet on a different elevation: either up on something or down on something. It’s practice for his harness, the step ups and downs.

He’s also (YAYA) sleeping through the night for the most part. He will not leave me alone though–demands to be on the bed with me.

I guess I let him for now, until he’s reliably housebroken and more secure, then he needs to sleep on the loveseat. As he gets bigger, he’ll take up too much room for more than a short nap. Overnight, I need the bed to rest comfortably or my health deteriorates.

***

THE NOT FUN STUFF: As for his frustration behavior, despite his good morning, Sunday afternoon was awful. He can go all night without needing out but whizzes everywhere when frustrated, even by his food or on his toys when he’s in one of his “moods”. uhg.

With the bite inhibition, I haven’t gotten the tether yet, and the usual methods aren’t helping all that much. So Sunday when he drew blood yet again after I blocked him from chewing the chair for the umpteenth time, I smeared the blood on his nose.

He hesitated, and eased off after that, but when he went for the arm again (he vocalizes too, like a frustrated puppy), he got a good taste of blood. Boy did he have a very surprised look on his face. He stopped immediately, and I wimpered rather than yelped which arouses him more.

Levi soon stopped the nipping and wandered a few seconds, then chewed his bone. I wonder what he was thinking? Some instinct echoing in his little brain? But the blood had more effect than all the training so far. When he nailed my ear during a nap, he again stopped as soon as he tasted the blood.

“Maybe he is going to get a clue about it now?”, I was hoping, but by Sunday afternoon, that hope was shot. I finally just set up the expen in the kitchen, and if he’s doing this for attention, he’ll learn fast it has the opposite effect.

This is kinda crazy, and makes me very sad. When he’s good, he’s a darling. But a time out is needed when a time out is needed.

We’re going back to the vet Monday, to see if he still has his bladder infection. I know he still has trouble with his ears’ yeast infection.

I’m gonna have them check for worms, and get him on heartguard, which prevents/treats hookworms and roundworms too, in addition to heartworms.

Oh little boy, will you be good so we can have lots of fun and enjoy each other’s company!!

First-Timer Tots….Lisa Harmon

 ”What is this place we’ve come to, Gram?”

Little Levi had his first obedience class Thursday night! His first step to becoming a service dog has been taken…

I had to lure him from the front lobby to the class area, and his little nose was glued to the ground. He wasn’t sure this class thing was for him at first.

It was noisy, and look at all the strange doggies, would ya? Ooo that one’s really hyper, and that one’s scared…

But the clicker came out, and he recognized our trainer. This class stuff was looking a bit more appealing. Do I get my supper here?

Levi’s frequent meals have morphed into obedience practices, one or two peices of kibble at a time. All the focus is on self-control commands, like sit or down with a bit of a pause before he gets his click n kibble. Leave it, of course, is a mainstay for him though it isn’t on the class docket.

Still, the sit/down/come commands in a group setting were exciting and distracting. He took a few minutes to focus himself, then hit his stride. Once or twice when the barking got pretty loud, Levi lost his confidence, so I sat on the floor and fed him treats for no reason, and shortly the barking didn’t bug him so bad. He even got to demonstrate the come command!

Levi was the littlest amigo there, though that won’t be true long. He is 11 weeks old now, and a smidge over 14″ tall. If he’d hold still long enough I’d know how long he was but oh well.

The tracking harness I fit him as best as he’d let me fit him with is a 20″-30″ girth. The 24″ was not going to give him much growing room, ie a bit pointless for a Dane puppy!

After class was a socializing time, and young Master Bite You kept his teeth to himself for the most part. He learned that caboose sniffing is a good thing, a growl means scoot back n sit, and not to chase a dog that has their tail tucked.

He was drawn to the calmest girl in the room, and started to like the Doxie that wanted to play pretty quick. He and the scaredy pup got to be pals, too. The two higher energy dogs though he steered clear of, the barking poodle in particular.

Anytime I saw this, he got a click and a treat! An assistance dog has to be chillin’, regardless of commotion or environs. THIS gets the big rewards.

I was really impressed with how calm he was about the whole business. Especially considering his “youth and inexperience”. Guess he only spazzes at home?

Hummm…I wonder if I could stand to live in a tent in a parking lot for awhile? Nah, not likely. ((smirk))

I was mildly concerned that the full hour and a half would overstimulate him, but it had the opposite effect. He came home and crashed like a zombie. In fact, he would have slept the whole night through had I not been unable to sleep.

To manage the frustrated shark frenzy he can get into I’ve become a first class opportunist. For instance, he’s getting better at staying quietly in a seat with just me in the car with him. So just before the teeth start really clamping down on me, we go to the c-store or someplace for a walk about or sit and listen to it all. Mentally tiring.

Another management tool: the heat. Outside, even just laying in the shade, it’s hot enough to have a physically tiring effect. So out he goes until he’s panting, then in to lay down and cool off before getting a nice big drink.

He needs to get out more–it tires him and that 12-16 week old socializing window is closing on us soon. I’m gonna have to start 2-a-days like a football practice.

(Lord where shall I find the energy?!)

Since Levi does so much better in public than at home I can take advantage of that good boy public behavior to help him at home. If I’m smart I can send him out with Mom and get at least some of the carpet shampooed again!! Does that sound like a conspiracy or what?

Keepin Me Real…by Lisa Harmon

I’ve a small confession: the past few days have been a rollercoaster. I usually do get stressed a bit by the housebreaking, nipping lessons and such. But sweet cuddly Levi was like the “worst” puppy I’d ever had, when I’m feeling poorly to start with. I was actually finding myself having regrets.

Since I also usually get a new puppy to the vet within a few days, I had a scheduled appointment Thursday.

A thousand worries went with us: was he too traumatized by the shipping, did living with a couple “old ladies” not keep him entertained like a family with kids?

Was he too sensitive to deal with my own stress, or is he just going to be one of those hellion boys until he’s grown…

Something wasn’t right, ’cause this is fussy puppy on steroids. Sure enough…just when I convince myself I’m a total ninny, it turns out I’m not.

My little grey shark has a rather big bladder infection, hence the potty training craziness. And his ears have the start of a yeast infection too. He’s not a hellion, he’s just a cranky chewing fiend of a patient who can’t help the fire hose peeing. Guilty…for starting to scold him when he would come inside and water the floorboards.

So plan B potty training: making going outside an even bigger reward, and do nothing but clean up the inside whiz. Bless him though, he’s stuck in the kitchen until after he’s really let out lots of urine outside. Then he can tromp and pounce around the rest of the house for 15 or 20 minutes. Then back to the laminate floor kitchen.

He’s much happier about going outside now, even at night (it’s around the clock vigilance). He’s getting treats which he loves to the point of forgetting why he’s out there to begin with! He’s discovered he can chew the living daylights out of empty water bottles all he wants, too.

***

I’ve started adding “eval” type pages for short summaries in the training areas specifying what Levi and I are doing, well or not well. I shall try to update them weekly too, so I have a record for myself to look back on, learn from, and be amazed by.

Even with all the above going on, Levi has shown himself to be very high potential: he hand targets very well already, knows his name, sits without luring now. In 24 hours…wow.

He will do absolutely anything for food, so I’m very fortunate there. And he is amazingly attentive: he watches me most of the time, even outside and around other neighborhood dogs.

He follows, he bugs, he paws for attention regularly. The down side of the persistance needed for a service dog: he’s not dissuaded easily. The future holds an ongoing battle of “leave its” for many a thing.

Fortunately Levi doesn’t startle much. When he does, like the crackling of an empty water bottle, it doesn’t take much of my playing with it, and treats to get him over his initial reservations. In fact the water bottle is now his favorite toy. Never underestimate the power of curiosity in a puppy!

(and to think just Thursday morning I was fearful I had made a terrible mistake getting a puppy right now…) No point in being wrong if it don’t show, right?

There’s a reason why I tell my ego to get stuffed and write down even my silliness for the world to see. Owner training a service dog is just that; owner training. If I was the slick laid back, got-every-tiger-by-the-tail person my pride would want me to pretend to be, I wouldn’t need a service dog in the first place. And it wouldn’t be honest.

Dishonesty doesn’t help anyone and there are many people who think they aren’t slick enough of a trainer to do it themselves. Knowing what you really truly cannot do, versus what you are afraid you cannot do is the key.

Puppies are naturally rough around the edges and messy. I am too when the puppy stress hits me. If I give Levi the right to be imperfect as any puppy is, then I give it to myself too. I’ll get back in the swing of puppy training, I’ll find a groove, and when he goes sideways in adolescence, I probably will too.

Oddly enough, the same tenacity we look for in a service dog candidate is just as needed in the owner trainer.

Step up or down

It’s surprising how many step downs and ups there are. I never paid much attention to them until I came to need a mobility service dog. Curbs are the main culprits, but some homes have dens you have to step down to enter, and decks with levels, gardens with a step up because of the slope of the land.

Step up and down is a touch alert I want to teach my next puppy, Levi. Since I can see a stair case, I’m going to limit this to one or maybe two steps. You know, the kind that make a person I won’t name go splat if she misses or misjudges it.

Alerting

The alert is the initial part of getting up and down safely, and I’ve trained alerts before, but not this particular one. The process of teaching an alert is essentially the same though: see it, then touch me.

My first step will be to train the pup to notice a curb or a step: see it, click and treat. The general public will likely think I’m nuts, going about looking for curbs for no other reason than to click and treat! But he can’t alert me later on if he doesn’t really understand that there is something about that curb I want him to pay attention to.

The second step is teaching a touch alert using a hand lure, that turns into hand targeting without the treat. A hand lure is simply using a treat in your hand to get the pup’s nose to follow the hand until he touches the part of the body you want him to.

Hand targeting without the treat starts when the pup is beginning to see the step and look to my hand for the treat. Then I move my hand to get the touch so I can click and treat him. When he’s touching regularly, the word “touch” is said when his little nose hits my body.

When he can do both, I begin putting the curb notice with the touch alert. The crazy curb lady is now looking for a curb to notice then touch, before the click and treat comes. See it touch me, needs to be pretty solid before I move on into how to get me up and down those step ups safely.

Up or Down Brace

With a step, I want to teach Levi after alerting me, to put his front feet up on the sidewalk or down on the parking lot asphalt and stop. That way I have his harness handle about 6 inches in front of me. I can pull or brace some as I need when he’s grown. He’s positioned where it works best for me.

Normally I put the foot on the other side of the dog on or off the curb first, and pause to make sure my balance is steady.

If it’s not, Levi will still be plenty close enough to counterbalance some, until I’m ready to move my other foot. Then when both my feet are up or down, I pause to check my balance and go ahead.

Now I’m adding a 3rd part for Levi: see, touch, step halfway up or down. Having worked so hard on him holding his position by my hip, and stopping when I stop, it shouldn’t be hard to stop Levi with his front feet only on or off the curb. The second his front feet are up, he gets a click and we stop.

A dog that’s used to clicker training knows that click means do this=get a treat since the action is over. They notice what they’ve done after having been clicked for it a few times. They make the association. Another way the clicker helps is the sound can interrupt the dog’s action and thoughts, assisting me in getting him to actually stop and notice.

The crazy curb lady is roaming about still!

Hopefully a pup will hold his position even if I’m bracing on him. I need to go back to clicking and treating him for accepting the brace in this new position for a few times, just to let him know that what he did was right. The same if he’s counterbalancing for me. (Forward, backward, or side has a page to the right).

With consistant practice this chain becomes a default action for the dog. Like I said, there are step ups and downs everywhere. The key is doing the process every time you encounter a step, and making the whole business a fun and rewarding activity.

Once my pup has got the parts of this task down, it too will find itself in the pace with me games. Over the years I’ve come to depend on the pace with me, for any dog.

It just grew into an exceptional idea for making service dog tasks smooth and quickly done, as well as fun.

This is from www.bighoneydog.com and Honey is a canine freestyle gal: she’s a competitve dancer!

Hear That Games for SDit

The “hear that” games for a 2-3 month old puppy were about recognizing what object makes what sound. Alot of sounds service dogs alert and respond to are 1–beeping (coffee pots, watches, alarm clocks), 2–ringing (phones, doorbells, cooking timers), and 3–human made noises (dropped items, handler’s name called).

There are other alerts as well; to vehicles so a person doesn’t get hit by the car they didn’t see or hear, a pan on the stove forgotten about, bikes coming too close from behind, the bathtub faucet left on by a distracted handler.

The beeps, rings, and human voice alerts are what I focus on for youngsters. The others mentioned are difficult, and often require more complex training.

Noticing certain sounds while ignoring others really has to be taught. I’m not usually too hearing impaired, having an odd mix of hypersensitivity to noise and yet not noticing sounds sometimes. When I need an alert, I really kinda do need it though.

I am able to teach these sound alerts when my ears aren’t full of noise and I’m reasonably un-foggy. If you have consistant hearing difficulty, you’ll likely need a family member or trainer to assist on the alerts for you.

There is many a moving part to a hearing alert and response, which means a thousand things can go sideways on you! So just like other tasks and obedience commands I avoid lumping by practicing the individual “parts” seperately with little pups.

I began by drawing attention to a sound I want to be alerted to, and luring a touch from them. Provide ample and consistant click and reward each time the sound occurs, and they begin to automatically look then touch, anticipating their yummy.

The “find it games” makes yet another appearance, when I ask them to then find what made the sound they’ve alerted me to.

If they know what a coffee pot is and where it’s at on the counter. They might also know the door greeting ritual. It’s just a matter of putting those parts together in a behavior chain.

Now that they can alert to the cooking timer, I will wait on the click and treat and ask them to find first. When they show me the timer, they get their click and considerable rewards. Since I’m putting more than one thing together now, I need to make concentrating easier.

So reduce the distractions around them by beginning this when the house is quiet and bones put away, lessen the distance they have to go to find the source of the sound, and increase the value as well as the amount of their reward. As they become reliable with an alert and find, you can re-introduce distraction and distance.

Here is a document you can download with a fairly large list you can alter to your own needs: HEARING ALERTS

The majority of my problems with hearing are related to the inner ear or forgetfulness.

Can’t count the number of times I forgot there was something in the microwave, or had too much ringing in my ears to notice the coffee maker beeped when it went off.

Rarely do I need to be awakened for an alarm clock or the house alarm (wow those are loud).

But I still want to teach some hearing alerts, especially for when ‘me and he’ are in public. I’m usually concentrating too hard to hear my name called in a busy restaurant. Most of the time I hear the cell phone because I only turn it on when I’m expecting to hear from someone. Sometimes I miss it though.

Benefits of Cross Training

Around 4-6 mo old, a new stage of puppy/dog development hits. Often the happy to please pup suddenly wants to do it their way, and can lose interest in the same-o-same-o. So when this hits, throw something new and exciting at them.

This is a Dane from www.chromadanes.com

Even though I’m training my pup to be a service dog, there are all kinds of benefits to that SD training from other dog sports. Agility builds on essential attentiveness and good physical condition.

Flyball reinforces targeting, retrieving, as well as exercising a not so pliant as used to be pup. Obedience Rally strengthens the sense of fun and reward for paying attention and quick responses. Herding can also translate to guide work, understanding the movement of a crowd to help the handler get through without being bumped around.

Pick a sport and you’ll find the work drive, attentiveness, and foundations of a good service dog are present in those too. Any of the above provide a new approach to the same things you’ve been working on. Not to mention how much fun it is to see your pup having a grand time!

Cross training can greatly improve the relationship between you, or it can be a disaster. It’s all in how you choose to interact. If there’s just as much pressure (or more) to perform, don’t expect your pup to like it better. If you’re there to have fun and try something new, you and your pal can turn into a seriously tight team.

Counterbalance Side, Forward, and Backward

These are the big three for me, the counterbalance side, forward and backward. Counterbalancing is a more natural behavior for dogs than bracing, so it’s much easier to “train”.

I put the word train in quotes because it’s not usually something I have to teach, I just capture–click and reward when the puppy does it naturally.

This is a nearly 6 mo old European bred Dane, and big as they are already, they are a full year away from being grown, and cannot bear weight yet. So ALL the brace and counterbalance practice is really just about positions and responses. It’s mild, and has to be.

It’s actually quite hard to find pics of service dogs counterbalancing–it’s often such a smooth action that ya really have to look to see it. That’s the point, too! A counterbalance becomes just normal part of walking with their partner.

Once the puppy has learned these actions fairly well, they also get thrown into the “pace with me” games, to help the task become smooth. This 1) speed up the noticing there’s a change in my body position and harness, and 2) help make that change a cue for a default action on their part.

Counterbalance Side

This is the most commonly used counterbalance for me, since I sorta wobble. Often it is paired with a brace side, thanks to the wobble. This is a pic of a brace side, and the dog’s body is showing uncertainty–the hunched back, and ear position. Many dogs find bracing strange.

Counterbalancing though is a normal balance response, and less likely to create canine uncertainty if approached with positive training methods.

It’s very simple really: when I lean away from the puppy, it pulls on their harness, and their instinct is to lean the other direction so they don’t fall over either.

Alot of times, by 4-6 mo old a puppy is so used to my gait that they’ve probably already learned to do this on their own. But I still have at least a handful of “practices” for it. I lean, they lean the other way, get a click and a reward.

Some dogs, however, are so unconcerned about being pulled on they need a fairly hard pull on the harness to respond, and can be a little surprised by it. Especially if you are working with an older dog whose weight is such they don’t need to react to smaller leans, their weight takes care of it.

If your pup seems taken aback by the action, make sure to laugh and stroke them while handing out extra good rewards. You want to overcome the surprise with very positive feelings about what they just encountered, and how well they responded. Then do the hard lean again several times so they understand the “I did this, you did that, very GOOD!”

Since a person (unnamed…) can also fall to the side, I mix up how hard I lean. Sometimes, most of the time, only a small balance correction is needed to keep me upright, but sometimes I give them a more sudden and steep lean. Of course, those counterbalances get the biggest and best rewards.

Counterbalance Forward

With the disclaimer that I don't know what many programs call this task...

when I lean back while walking or standing, I want the pup to lean forward. I don’t even teach the puppy the name of the task, so it doesn’t matter to me what it’s called so long as it’s comfortable and easy for the human to remember.

Most pups will also do this naturally. If you’ve ever walked a “puller” you know if you pull back on the leash, they dog pulls forward more. So I begin very simply by leaning backwards while holding their harness handle and wait for them to lean forward so I can click and reward.

After doing that 2 or 3 times in a row, I make sure they notice me click a leash on their collar and reward them for walking loose leash with me a little ways. The intention is to  seperate in their minds walking with a leash and walking with my hand on the harness. I don’t want them pulling on the leash.

If a pup isn’t catching onto the idea I will get a friend to use a treat lure in front of their noses, until they are starting to go forward when there is a pull back on their harness.

This pic shows a simple lure.

Then I wean off the treat lure by hiding the treat, pulling back and waiting for their forward lean before they get a click and the treat.

Counterbalance Backward

Like counterbalance forward, I don’t teach the puppy the name of it, so I don’t care what it’s called formally. And like CB forward, the name I use comes from the action I want the puppy to take: to lean backward if my body is starting to tilt forward while we walk or stand.

This is only for a small bit of forward leaning. If I’m stumbling or taking a header, the action I want is a rapid brace front. This puts their shoulders, the strongest part of their body, right in front of me. If this is happening, the change of body position is usually very sudden and the movement of the harness is also sudden and strong.

When I start to pitch just a little forward, it is usually a gradual shifting and pulls forward slightly on the harness handle. That is their cue to shift their weight back for a counterbalance. I capture it by leaning, waiting for them to shift their weight, then click and reward.

Some pups though will want to come forward a step or two, particularly if they’ve had alot of practice at the stumbling brace front. It’s important they know the difference or I’ll find a walk frequently interrupted with a brace front. So I will often do the stumbling brace front and counterbalance backward in quick succession.

Hopefully they will make their own associations about hard and fast = brace front, where as slow and slight = counterbalance backward. I can always make the contrast more stark, and use a lure to assist the pup in making the right decision for awhile! Then it’s play time, having “worked” so hard…

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